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1969 Datsun B20, Restoration

Wurzel
Melbourne
Joined: 11-Feb 2011
73 posts
Post #41 | Wednesday, 22-Jun 2011 @ 2:30pm
Jeez I just noticed the legths you went to on that stereo fitout!
Exactly the same thing had been done to mine...I went the opposite way and made the hole much bigger to fit a JVC Kameleon, the most unobtrusive, non flashing light unit I could find.

What sorta welder are you using? Ive been practicing on tafe's MIG on a 1200 panel...but even on the lowest setting, seem to blow holes in it- even trying to stictch. Any tips on such light guage welding would be appreciated as it looks like you know what youre doing
beetwenty
Gold Coast, Australia
Joined: 05-Feb 2011
1183 posts
Post #42 | Wednesday, 22-Jun 2011 @ 4:47pm
Edited by admin
Saturday, 31-Dec 2011 @ 5:41pm
I have a $300 gasless M.I.G. welder that I bought from my local hardware store.
Im still not too good on it at all I would say 4/10, I still find myself geting frustrated with it sometimes.
Everything I have tried has been through trial and error, so im sure there are better ways to do things.

Things I have found to help me when welding are...

  • Clean your steel until it is all shiney where you are welding and also on your earthing point.
  • If welding near an recent weld, clean everything again with a wire wheel in a drill untill it is shiney again.
  • Only weld very small ammounts at a time, and if possible use a damp cloth on your panel to remove excess heat surrounding the weld.
  • Use a piece of aluminium or copper behind your sheet metal as a heat sink to draw heat from the panel and to stop the weld from blowing through. (Your weld will not stick to the aluminium or copper).
  • Allow time for cooling if welding near a recent weld.
  • Practice welding with scrap the same thickness as you will be using to find your settings.

 
And finaly... practice, practice, practice, (which i still need).


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Chris:
I removed everything from that door and found rust in a few places, im not sure if i want to use it ir chase another one.

Engine will be an A-Series, although im not sure which model or what will be done to it.
So far im liking the idea of a stock A14 or A15.
I see it as being a cheaper alternative to a tricked up A12 making similar power.
Im not chasing huge power, I want to stay A-Series gearbox and 1000 Diff.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
clyons8
Rabaul, Papua New Guinea
Joined: 10-Feb 2011
458 posts
Post #43 | Wednesday, 22-Jun 2011 @ 6:05pm
Sounds good. The factory EGI A15 made 92hp stock, pretty damn good really.

You are right going for the bigger block to save on funds but a revvy little A12 really does get the blood flowing, I miss my old motor but I won't be building something like that again as the costs are quite high.

Even the A10 isn't bad with a little cam and some carbs but once again it depends on your budget.

Looking forward to hearing and seeing more of this.

Cheers.
1000Deluxe
Melbourne, Australia
Joined: 23-Aug 2012
68 posts
Post #44 | Friday, 07-Feb 2014 @ 4:31pm
Any updates Ash? Dieing to see this finished to your standards.
beetwenty
Gold Coast, Australia
Joined: 05-Feb 2011
1183 posts
Post #45 | Friday, 07-Feb 2014 @ 9:08pm
No updates sorry.
 
I sold this ute to Leith when I bought my 2 Door.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
1000Deluxe
Melbourne, Australia
Joined: 23-Aug 2012
68 posts
Post #46 | Monday, 10-Feb 2014 @ 8:30am
Missed that one, well glad its still in the family. I'm sure Leith will continue to do it justice.
 
Happy 3rd Birthday to datsun1000.com also, great job.
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