15 Posts - Page: 1

Suspension Mount - Broken Off, Check your car!

While competing in a rally back in August the 1967 Sunny was pulling to the left under braking.  It got worse during the event but somehow we won anyway (very low key event so don't be too surprised).  We thought it was brakes but as soon as I started removing the front wheels I found the real cause.  The little tower on the left hand side that comes up from the front rails that the top suspension arm mounts on had broken off.  All that was holding it on was the bolt to the outer end of the cross-member.
 thats lucky how are you going to go about fixing it? i've got a coilerover setup for the front of my thou and have been wondering if that tower is strong enough to support the extra force and somehow i dont think so
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
The plan is to bend everything back to close to the right shape, weld it in while comparing position to the other one then plate over the weld and further down the rails.  Then strengthen the RH side.  I will probably have to remove the cross-member to do it.
 
Now how do I get rid of the extra posts I made?
 
Mark
Wow. Is it correct to assume it was weakened by rust?
 
Glad to see you are still rallying the B10. Is it still the same A10 with twin 40s?
I don't believe that rust has had any part in it.  Just the twisting from the braking force (PB510 discs) and keeping the wheel located in the one vertical plane.
 
It's the same car that I finished building in 1998, it's only showing about 7000 miles since then but a lot of it has been hard driving on dirt.
 
The cross-member is now out so the clean up can proceed then welding, painting and re-assembly.
 
Mark
nice be awesome if you could throw some pictures up of the reinforcement
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
can you please state what work you did for your front disc brake setup to work
Im always looking out and so are others on alternatives
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Make sure once you have welded those cracks that travel across the face only weld your reinforcement plates with the flow of the steel, do not weld across. I would try and wrap your rail before attempting to weld the mounting brackets back on. Also if possible due to the fact that most of the car is spot welded together, if you can weld and bolt anywhere else try to do so. If that means making tabs from the original uprights and bolting through the chassis rail try and make it a priority. Looking at the uprights a simple not so good looking way would to be, make a 5mm base plate and run some 3mm angle iron up each side weld with the steel.
 
Pm me if you need any advice happy modify any pics you send.
 
Richo reinforcement king lol
The brakes were done nigh on 20 years back so I don't remember much.  I can photograph the units and post if you wish.  There are probably better options, I had to use pre '68 brakes from the same manufacturer under the rules that the car is built to so range was limited to P510 Bluebird, Cedric, Skyline and Fairlady - P510 was the easiest to find.
 
Mark in Research
For re-inforcement I am thinking of:
.   two strips of angle (1-2mm thick) on top of the rails against the tower and parallel to the cross-member;
.   two strips (10mm wide) of flat running down the towers onto the rail maybe going under as well;
.   two wider strips running down the outside joins and going under the rail.
 
I am happy to recieve any advice (and piccies/sketches).
 
Mark
Just some advice on plating you can look at some high quality turbo manifolds and see how they re-inforce that section with bridges or plates.
 
Would love to see the caliper and brackets you used just to get an idea.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
I hope I am thinking about this right.
 
What about making the worlds smallest "Strut Brace" to connect the crossmember to the suspension mount?
It would replace some camber shims at the top end and mount between the engine mount and crossmember at the other.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
The car is back on the road, just in time for a rally this weekend running out of Powelltown.  Funny how it gets fixed just in time!  Neal at NODs MODs put the tower back on and strengthened appropriately.  The tower was welded back in place then strengthen by plating the front and read of the tower, the top of the rail and the adjoining inner guard with 3mm steel.  Then the right hand side was similarly treated as it had started to crack also (and as a preventative measure).
 
Mark
I can report from the rally that there are a lot of hills around Powelltown.  The A10 was spinning at 7000rpm for much of the night in second gear.  We finished but down in 7th place.  Stanza in first then a couple of Golfs, a 205GTI, a Corolla (very embarrasing) and a 2L Escort.  We beat the next 14 as well as the 10 that didn't finish.  The only re-assembly problem was one of the gearbox mount bolts not being tight.  Now I have a very long list of improvements before the next event which is back on flatter country.
 
Mark
great work Mark, keep the Datto fighting....
15 Posts - Page: 1