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Beetwenty's B10 2 door

Yes thats the one, our treasures should be visible, well yours anyways mine I have none atm. Pinterest seems good too but I use Photobucket
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Over the week/weekend i have fitted 120y seats into my sedan.
 

 
I made up an adapter to even out the mismatch in height on the 120y seat mounts.
 
Then added 20mm box between the seats and rails to allow full movement without hitting the box section hump over 1000 tunnels.
 
Rails on the tunnel side were relocated approx 20mm towards the seat centre to allow the rail to clear the same box hump on the tunnel.
 

 
Now i have headrests. 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Just a quick update on my build.
 
Fitted a new old stock front sunny embmem.
This completes my set to be sunny for all my emblems now.
 

 
Brakes and A14 are next on the list.
I have made an off the car start on both these projects...
 
I'll put up some pics when i have some more free time.
 
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I had some steel plates water cut to do my brake swap. (Vk non finned calipers, U12 Pintara rotors and custom brackets to suit).
 
I decided to water cut in 10mm and 5mm to keep my costs down.

 

Tapping threads.
 

I needed to remove some steel from the webbing on the caliper to get it all sitting right.
 
I wanted the caliper to make full contact with the rotors while sitting square.
 

I had a friend weld my bracket to my centering ring in 3 places.
 
This is as far as I have come with the brake swap so far... but thought an update was in order.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
does this setup widen your track to double the thickness of the caliper brackets?
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Track stays as is.
 
The 10mm plate takes up free space where the drum brakes were doing their thing.
 
All the suspension bits bolt as they were and hubs stay the same.
 
I would need to check disc thickness vs drum thickness to see if there is anything there, as both sit over wheel studs.
 
But my current line of thought is track should stay the same.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Time for an update on the A14 which im going to be using in my 1000.
 
I purchased an A14 a few weeks ago and have been chipping away at it ever since.
 
 
Eventually i plan to use the manifold and carbs, but for now it will be going in with a single 40mm DCOE Weber.
 
Here it is when i got it home.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have now painted the block, honed bores, replaced rings, conrod bearings, head studs, spark plugs and oil filter. Plus gaskets etc.
Checked timing chain stretch, valve gaps, and rough set distributor timing.
 
  
 
I have temporarily replaced the head with an early A12 head which i had refurbished approx 3 months of driving before removal of engine.
 
The late round port head which came on the engine was in my opinion,  unusable. 
 
Rusty rockers and springs, snapped aluminium where a water fitting enters the rear of the head
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I am currently in the process of mocking up engine mounting on a spare crossmember which i had cleaned up previously.
 
Here is an old pic of the spare crossmember while i was cleaning it up.
 

 
Once the crossmember was cleaned i had a buisness next door to my work weld on high tensile washers to my crossmember and weld up the elongated edge of the LCA pivot.
 
This mod should keep my LCA pivot in alignment for many years to come.
 
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
As promised in another topic, here is the run down on my mounts so far.
 
6mm plate drilled & tapped to suit a 10mm thread.
Plate countersunk and thread tapered.
 
Welded up and then cut out to make a bolt with a large rectangular head.

 
Then welded to 38.1mm tube with a 1.6mm wall (34.9mm inner diameter)
 
Tube length is 40mm. 
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I used 120y leaf spring bushes and cut the smaller diameter length to 20mm each.

 
Cutting was a simple procedure.
 
*Bolt through the bushing and then inserted into a drill.
*run drill and cut with a stanley knife using the pointed end of the blade to cut.
(I also sprayed my blade with some lanox prior  to cutting)
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
The 120y bushings are listed on the nolathane web page as 35mm outer diameter and 12mm inner diameter.
 
However, i decided to use the superoo bushings to keep the mounts dark in colour.
 
The bushings i used have a 1/2 inch inner diammeter, so i ended up using high pressure hydraulic tubing as my crush tube.
 
12.7mm OD, 10.2mm ID.
 
I will be using 10mm high tensile bolts with a shanked section running the full width of my mounts inside my crush tube.
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
The top half of my bushing is made up of 2mm steel, plus a 3mm backing plate for the top.
 
I also have some high tensile washers to weld to the sides for a thicker interfacing between the bolt and mount.
 
Gussets for the sides.
 
 
 
I will update with some pics once i start on modifying my crossmember.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
As a side project I have also made an alternator tensioner bracket.
 
I am using an early head on a late engine, but want to run the alternator in the late position.
 
So a custom bracket was needed to join the two.
 
It is just 6mm steel cut to shape and welded to part of a spare bracket I had.
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.

 
Welded. 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Yesterday i cut down the engine towers on my spare crossmember, cut up plate to close it up again at the new heights and my friend welded it all together for me.
 
Drivers side, before/after.
 
 
Passenger side, before/after.
I left the mount foward relative to the crossmember to keep the engine mount away from the hot exhaust.
 
 
Bolted under my A14

 
When deciding on engine placement i wanted my A14 crank position to be as close to the current Early A12 crank position as i could achieve while still being reasonable about the work needed to do so.
I made up a jig to simulate my crossmember under my A14 and found that the motor was going to sit up and/or forwards of the A12 position because of the larger sump.

 
This made me decide on the stiffer bushing mounts as i decided stiff mounts with a smaller clearance would keep my motor height closer to where i wanted it...
 
Well after massaging the sump with a hammer in the corner closest to the top front edge of.my crossmember.
 

 
I am happy with this clearance vs engine height.
 
I ended up with a crank height 8mm higher than my current Early A12.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
 
 
All painted black.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Propper Mods, Good work
Looking like they could take a v8 in weight! very sturdy construction.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Thanks for the lovin on my mods so far.
 
I attempted to do new bushings on my LCA's last night with 10mm threaded rod from Bunnings and some sockets.
 
Got the new bushings in most of the way before the threads on the rod said no.
Time to get a shop press involved i guess.
 
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
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