Post #21
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Thursday, 26-May 2011 @ 9:34pm
I don't think anything on a 1000 is overly heavy.
I have had thoughts of a rack and pinion set up when I was considering engine swaps.
But the more I thought about geometry the scarier it seemed.
I would think getting the rack cut to the correct length will be the biggest thing to get right so you don't create excessive bump steer.
I would imagine matching the length of the rack and rack ends to the lengths of the cross link and tie rod ends would be optimal, assuming the rack mounts in the same place as the old cross link.
on that note...
Looking from the top down at the cross rod, the distances forward/back change because of the arc the steering arm/idler arms take through their travel.
and a rack would be fixed at that point, so there would be some differences in how things steered.
It would be easy enough to get the steering looking right with the wheels pointed straight forward and the car sitting at a fixed ride height,
But once the wheels are turning left/right and going up/down things may be slightly different.
It was more than I was willing to take on.
Once you were happy with lengths and mounting positions I think the swap would be pretty straight forward, not too many parts to mount in a rack and pinion setup.
I would be very interested in seeing progress updates/photos if you decide to go down this road.
It is a very tempting swap. Im just not confident in my own abilitys,
I don't know enough about steering to introduce new geometry into a steering system.
I have had thoughts of a rack and pinion set up when I was considering engine swaps.
But the more I thought about geometry the scarier it seemed.
I would think getting the rack cut to the correct length will be the biggest thing to get right so you don't create excessive bump steer.
I would imagine matching the length of the rack and rack ends to the lengths of the cross link and tie rod ends would be optimal, assuming the rack mounts in the same place as the old cross link.
on that note...
Looking from the top down at the cross rod, the distances forward/back change because of the arc the steering arm/idler arms take through their travel.
and a rack would be fixed at that point, so there would be some differences in how things steered.
It would be easy enough to get the steering looking right with the wheels pointed straight forward and the car sitting at a fixed ride height,
But once the wheels are turning left/right and going up/down things may be slightly different.
It was more than I was willing to take on.
Once you were happy with lengths and mounting positions I think the swap would be pretty straight forward, not too many parts to mount in a rack and pinion setup.
I would be very interested in seeing progress updates/photos if you decide to go down this road.
It is a very tempting swap. Im just not confident in my own abilitys,
I don't know enough about steering to introduce new geometry into a steering system.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
