6 Posts - Page: 1

Datsun Vanette a15, Fitting into 1000

Hey guys just wondering what is involved in taking out an a15 and the gearbox and dropping it into the thou wagon?
 
I think the engine mounts need to be made up?
 
How close would the gearbox line up and is it possible to even use the gearbox considering its column shift?
 
anything else i need to think about?
 
thanks in advance.
 
Picking one up hopefully tonight i will be using engine though will probably get it on the road and to use it and do a rough restore/bog up rust etc. down the track.
Hey Matthew
The A15 will need simple custom mounts, not a big job.
The Vanette 4/5 speed is quite different to the Sunny4/ 5 speed. Much shorter and I think the gear change linkage is above the box and probably wont fit in the thou tranny tunnel.
Thanks for the reply. Drove down to Ballina on wednesday afternoon to pick it up and didnt realise cant hire a trailer after 6.00 apparently. Had a look at the Van and pretty rusty. Was gonna offer him less and pick it up tomorow but someone else offered him double what i offered originally!
 
Not meant to be
 
 
Would the a15 be too much behind a 120y gearbox 4 speed? As that's what i have. I know they're a reasonable bit torqier but would not be much different to a hot a12 i imagine? Just for future reference.
Vanette A15 is torquey at low revs but has a cam that does not like to rev over 4000 with zest
while the sunny version does
 
Best take the A15 vanette cam and swap it for a sunny A14 or A15 but they are hard to come by
so best just take the A15 vanette original cam to get it ground to GX specs.
 
There are other specs, but I found the extra 200-300cc on the A14/15 engines does this cam
justice as the A12gx needs 3500-4000 rpm before it starts to gain traction.
 
I had the GX cam profile in an A16 at first with bike carbs, headers, comp and alot of other work
but wished I kept the gx grind rather than go wilder as it became a pig to drive.
 
Beyond that would run a South African made Rowland inlet manifold for a 28/36mm carb,
10.5 comp, GX cam, nice headers plus 1 3/4 system and electronic ignition.
 
120y box or better is best but on a thouee, stock 1200 box can still do the job if compassionate.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Ok sweet thanks Dave. Ofcourse after realistic measurements, yes the bellhousing on whatever gearbox you put with an sr16 will scrape the floor. And i'm not touching the bonnet.
 
I have done a little research in an a16 but how did you go about it? Just bored or different pistons or what?
Yep just bored to 77.5 for safety as A series bores are getting a fair bit of corrosion these days.
If I do an A16 twin cam, full sleeves are going in for double the price of just bigger bore job.
Mine will have 83mm sleeves for NA ca18de shaved pistons for flat tops giving 1775cc
Mazda twin cam head, 40mm CV carbs, headers, cams & Megajolt jnr ignition will scream
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
6 Posts - Page: 1