18 Posts - Page: 1

Question about wiring, Radio

I have decided to make a start on wiring up my radio, I don't want to cut into the original wiring.
I thought a good place to get a Constant (+) and a second (+) that is only on when the car is switched on would be straight from my ignition switch.
 
As far as I understand the ignition switch has 3 wires.

  1. Constant (+) in
  2. (+) out when ignition is on
  3. Starter


So I have made a harness to rob power for my radio from here.

 
It just splits 1 wire into 2 from the constant (+) for the yellow memory wire to my radio.
and splits 1 wire into 2 from the ignition when in the on position, to run the red (+) wire on my radio.
The starter just joins the to ignition as it would if no harness was in place.
 
Before I plug this in I thought I would ask if it is a good idea? am I missing anything?
The radio wiring has a fuse on the yellow memory wire, should I include another fuse on the red (+) wire?
 
---------------------------------------------------------------Edit------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Im a dick, I should just use a multimeter and find the standard radio wiring, I'll leave my original question up anyway.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
What sort of stereo are you putting in, will you be running an amp as well?
 
I'm just thinking on the potential load you could put though the original radio wiring, considering the old girls' original AM "doof-doof" probably only produced 5 watts through one channe, if thatl!!   I mean, it probably will take it (the original fuse is 20A), but I'd hate to think what would happen if you beeped at that tosser in the Kluger who just cut you off, whilst the tunes were blaring AND the cigarette lighter was pushed in! 
 
But seriously,If you're still using your harness (I reckon you should, so there's no extra load through the original wiring) definitely include a fuse for your red (+) wire, as this will be drawing more current (amps) than the memory wire.
 
Good luck!
Alan.
When the "D" hits your eye, like a txt smiley guy...
you can use the original switch wire to power up the new unit, But I'd run a new power cable to run the new stereo from the battery with a fuse in it..
and I almost like what you did there,
but without the chocolate block joiner...
and I see when your checking with your test lite, probing into the wire, best to be "back Probing" into the back of the plug to touch on the terminals..
 
.... and I think there is a "spare" wire in the harness near the radio...
Well after removing several spliced/monkeyed wires that had been added over the years, my 1000 original wiring now matches the wiring diagram.
 
 

 
After using my multimeter and the original wiring diagram, I have found that standard the 1000 has a constant (+) only.
A Blue wire with a sleeve over it.
And strangley enough has wiring for the coupe clock, hmmm?
So im back to my original idea of the harness in my first post as I like the idea of my radio switching off with the car.
I might even run my Cigarette lighter on this circuit as well so if I use a GPS it will switch off with the car.
 
Im using a "Retro-Sound, Model-One-Radio"
The fuse on the memory wire for my radio is 15A, so i feel better about using my harness instead.
 
I might still use a better joiner instead of the block joiner, but it will do for now.
(Maybe I should wrap some electrical tape over the screws on my block joiner for now)
 
Im just using a pair of 4 inch speakers (Fusion CS-FR4020, 30 Watts Rated Power. 160 Watts Peak Power) that I will hide under the dash where ever they can squeeze out of sight, So no amp for now.
 
They claim 83dB, I'll see how they sound in the 1000 and decide from there if they are adequate.
The area inside a 1000 is a small space so these speakers might be enough for me.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Dundee, The marks on the wire are from aligator clips on a shitty soldering jig I picked up at dick smith , Don't worry I have been testing through the joiners.
 
I just had to rebuild 2 original plugs so I could slide heat-shrink over peoples splicing/testing in my original wiring.
I don't want any more holes in my wires.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
If you cut a new parcel shelf for the rear using 12mm + plywood you can get a pretty good soundboard for your speakers. I folded some perforated steel over the entire shelf so as the speakers were hardly visible but still audible. I hate seeing shiney speakers floating on the parcel shelf of old cars. Not cool.
 
That radio you got is very nice, great purchase.
I might do that some time down the line Chris.
 
The Retro-Sound has 4 x 50w channels, peak 100w.
So a set of 6 inch speakers would go well.
I should still get away with not having to use an Amp as im not too keen on using a giant set of subs.
 
I had a similar setup in a Mitsubishi Colt (4 x 50w channels, 4inch up front and 6 inch rears) and it went more than good enough for me.
I don't see the need for an insanley loud stereo in such a small car.
 
 

 
I welded up the stereo hole in my dash to suit my Retro Sound, so it will need paint later.

 
 
Before I become the reason another 1000 has extra holes,.
Has anyone put speakers under their dash without making new holes?
The only way I can think to do it would need one new screw hole in the car for each speaker.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
only way i've never cut out holes is to use speaker pods, i'd assume you'd be able to knock up some pretty good custom pods and wrap them in some similar vinyl and bobs your uncle
 
i reckon just two speakers up front would do, im not 'into' doof doof i'd rather save weight and go faster
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
I don't think im going to need pods, it is just one screw hole about 3mm dia.
How I think I would mount my speakers needs one screw to poke through into the wheel well.
 
Im concerned about water & rust starting as a result of my hole and screw, Im thinking of using some sika over the screw from the wheel arch side if i mount my speakers like im thinking.
 
the speakers would be way up under the dash and completley out of sight.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
oh i see can you bolt it? that way you could drill the hole and paint the edge, or maybe just weld a bolt to the inside of the wheel arch where you need it then spot it up with some paint?? im not a real fan of sikaflex
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
I could weld on a nut, it would mean removing the guards.
 
It's not a huge effort to do, but I was just thinking of using a tex screw.
I was thinking of sika because I have heard silicone can cause rust, and sika does not.
 
Maybe a quick squirt of black paint would be all it needs to seal everything up again.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have taken on some of what you guys have said as well as incorporated some of my own ideas,
 
I have...

  • Made a new ignition harness without the "Chocolate Block Joiner"
  • Run a seperate (+) wire with a fuse from the battery to a relay that will only allow power to the Radio and Cigarette lighter when the ignition is in the "On position".
  • Ran a seperate Fuse for the Cigarette lighter




 
I have made the Cigarette Lighter part of my harness removable also.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I mounted my speakers underneath my dash.
No new holes were needed at all, and they are completley out of sight.
 
The 4 inch speakers have enough volume, although I think I will use a set of 6 inch 2-way speakers in the rear eventualy and set the F/R balance to favour the rear so I don't accidently put 50 watts through a pair of 30 watt speakers.
 
I'll get some pics tomorrow when the sun is out.
(My little brother prefers natural light to take photos).
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Now that is a Good Harness Bro.. well done..
Thanks Dundee,
 
As promised here are some pics of my under dash speaker set up.

 
The ledge on the bottom of the dash wedges inbetween the speaker and mounting plate, and I ran a small 90deg bracket to the hood release cable mount.
 
I did a similar thing for the passanger side but I can't get the camera up into there.
 
Here is a pic of the radio switched on.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Just looking at your photos beetwenty.
 
Nice work on the install of the new radio/stereo system. It looks the part and not oo out of place in the dash. The wiring harness also looks pretty schmick. Well done.
 
I was also impresed to see that you had earmuffs and glasses on, but the lack of a guard on the grinder concerns me somewhat... I dont want to sound to mean, but geez dude for the love of 5 finger goodness, get a guard on the grinder!
I think I have spent too much time around my dodgy mates.
I'll look for that guard.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
18 Posts - Page: 1