sheesh, thats alomost lomger than me...
 
and for a 4 door...
 
"pics or ban... "

Sorry about the non-sensical smily. I was trying to put up  a post on my phone, but all i got out was the smiley. (ill put in a comment in the site problems section in a bit).
 
Righto, so some pics for the demanding ones...
 

I cut the tunnell down the length and cut the new hole for the stick.
I also unpicked the spots that hold the tunnell to the firewall to allow for more expansion.
 
Im trying to get the engine to set as level as possible. I have about 25mm from the sump to the cross member so I can really lower the motor much more, and to do that means different engine mounts. Im curently using the early Cortina ones.
 

The standard engine bay shot, showing current angle of engine. Its nearly level. this is with the gearbox pushed hard against the now cut tunnel.
 

Underneath the gearbox. it fits pretty well into the tunnell. Havent yet made the gearbox mount, but some sandwich plates will be the winner I think.
 

A shot from the front of the car showing the engine and gearbox alignment. So far so good.

As seen from front of box
 

 
Bearing and carrier removed
 

 
Bearing carrier (Datsun) machined to approx 31.5mm inside diameter
 

 
Next 2 show the stub... you can possibly make out the step down AFTER the spring retainer is installed
We machined it to suit the carrier we had already machined down
From memory Dellow said to just machine the Datsun carrier right out to suit the STD Toyo snub...I felt this was too far and would weaken the carrier too much so we went with alittle from column A and alittle from column B
 

 
You will possibly not the tie wire holding the spring together... they tend to slip off if you don't do this


 
I also run a spigot bearing in the centre of the flywheel thats retained by the crank bolts
This stops the end of the input shaft flopping about
Dellow supplies a brass bush... but I prefer to use a roller bearing personally

hahaha love the last line! also gotta say why didnt I think of that for the tunnel!!!!! just split it in the middle is so much easier than taking the whole thing off then putting a new one in, total genius stroke. Will love to see the final finished product.

 
Make sure you flare the front and rear guards or will suffer later once its painted and looking for wheels with a lowered stance.
 
 
The mazda head kit is all ready, the dude who makes them is a tinkering genius mad proffessor ex auto mechanic, he also has a sohc 8v speedway mazda head on an early block that will rev to 9000rpm as the head did on the B series motor.
He went for the early A12 block for a datsun 1000 he was given for free but going to 76mm bores hit water on the bore as the early blocks are thinner than later A12 and older of course.
He should have sleeved to 78mm and used the Mazda B6 pistons straight off but he does all the hard work and $$ and I just watch him do it basically in awe but also with appreciation we can learn from his efforts.

Righto folks
 
Coupla questions about engine bits.
 
Now I know that If money was no object then this wouldnt even be a question, but these days it is, and I mean really is...
 
On the flipside, I have always subscribed to the concept of "Right tool for the right job" and "If you have time to do something twice, you have time to do it right the first time"
 
So, Given that I am now running the Mazda head on an A15 block, that will be efi (prob group/bank fire, but sequential if I can), with a turbo, aiming to run 15psi and achieve around the 130-150hp mark for realible driving. More hp is always welcome, but only if it can be drivable and realible. A 300hp monster with a 30psi tubo that hits at 4500rpm is not my idea of useable. (although very cool!)
 
I am running the T50 gearbox (see above posts) with a R31 BW LSD. 3.9 ration from memory (silouette diff).
 
How far do I need to go with this engine build?
 
eg
H-beam rods or I-beams
Forged pistons, ceramic coated, chrome coated, or plain cast units?
Head studs, or bolts?
bigger main cap studs? (is this possible in the a15?)
Full engine balanced front to back, top to bottom?
Blueprinting?
Lightened flywheel?
etc etc etc
 
I have no specific budget in mind. If pricy parts is what needs to happen, then I just save up for longer.
If anyone has an opinion of where I should get my block prepped in Perth that would be good too.
 
Cheers
 
 

For the pistons, you just recommend some off the shelf std cast items? Thats a relief as forgies can be around the $1000 mark.
 
And you are using rods from what D?
These are standard datsun a12 (in your case) items?
 
When I go to the machinest shop, I should ask them about offset sleveing? Sorry, but this mega technical stuff is not yet in my mental repository...
 
What size are the ca18de/Mazda BP pistons in diameter? Are the rings in these setups good for the boost im planning? Both of those motors were NA, but are both modernish motors. Did they change anything for the turbo versions?
 

H-beam rods or I-beams  -- Well prepared std ones will be fine @ 15 psi - ARP rod bolts
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=94
 
Forged pistons, ceramic coated, chrome coated, or plain cast units? - Cast will do at that boost
Head studs, or bolts? - Head studs is what I'm using ARP
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1117

bigger main cap studs? (is this possible in the a15?) APR here again 
Match up the length and diameters on the ARP site to suit

Full engine balanced front to back, top to bottom? YUP

Blueprinting? All part of the service

Lightened flywheel? YUP


Applied Automotive do all my engine machining (Davison St Maddington)

Thanks for the tips Neil.
Are the guys at applied automotive friendly to datsuns?

with a t25bb that manifold will be magic! heaps of torque from low rpm
I initially looked at this one when thinking of turbo
 
When the lot is polished removing the pesky Mazda writing will be a gem!

And for the turbo, I was considering using a t25 from a 300zx. Seems like perfect sizing since they were twin turbo setups and each bank was seperate. Thats 1.5l per turbo, and good for 15psi. Thats enough for now.