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Reuby Tuesdays 4 door sedan project

Copy that on the metal rescue. Will investigate both options. 
The axles arn' that bad. Just a little brown is all. No flakes or bubbles.
So another update on the project.
 
Havent had time to get into the shed over xmas (stoopid poo poo work) to do anythign with the axles, so have been doing homework instead.
 
Have been getting the guys at PCM hacking onboard (see link below) to start on the BCM setup.
 
I had scabbed a VX BCM and harness, but as it turns out its not the ideal solution.
 
I have picked up a LD astra unit instead, but am in the need for some pulsar stuff.
 
If anyone is wrecking an N13 Pulsar (07/1987-1991 )with the GM Family II 1.8l multipoint engine, Im on the need for some stuff. Ones with an E15/16, CA16, or FJ20 are no good - they dont have the right stuff.
 
The advice I have got is to grab the entire wiring harness with everythign that it connects to like sensors. If I can grab a second BCM as well thats a winner.
 
Other, but less desriable donors include
1984-87 JD Cameria
07/87 - 07/89 LD Astra
90-98 Daewoo Espero (maybe)
 
If I can get my hands on a whole car that would be the way forward. I could then steal the parts, and palm the rest off.
else, I need to rely on wreckers to pull the parts for me.
 
If anyone here can hook me up with the N13 parts that would be grouse. 
Scumtree seems to be pretty dry at the moment for N13s
Anyone got an opinion on crank scrapers and knife edge cranks?
 
Planning of getting the bottom end to the engine shop in the new year for prepping, balancing, and assembly.
 
Also getting the head prepped and then assembled.
 
Although on the lookout for a 97-98 ford laser head - they use the B6 but have fancy roller rockers and solid lifters on the head.
I have crank scraper and windage trays for my girl
Can show you if you like
 
Same as these... since this is where I bought them from
https://www.crank-scrapers.com/Datsun-Nissan_A_ENGINE.html
Im pretty keen on a windage tray and crank scrapers, if nothing else for the wank factor.
 
Just trying to decide if i should get the crank knife-edged.
Obviously, this has be decided before i get it balanced, before the fitment of a scraper and before it goes into the block.
 
This project is not going for fuel economey, so a heavy crank and flywheel for long distance fuel economey and smooth running is less of a concern.
I kinda like the idea of fast rev pick up/drop off, but i do have to be reasonable. It has to be drivable and relaible enough to drive. Not intrested in a Dyno pony or something so difficult to maintain that i never want to drive it. 
 
Going to speak to the guys at applied automotive for the machining and assembly of at least the bottom end.
I dont expect im going to save much if I assemble it vs them.
Im also looking for a complete N13 Pulsar that i can pull apart for the Wizbang stuff.
 
If anyone has a lead that would be good - must be the 1.8l EFI version
I can show you the trays and scrapers next time your about
 
Bear in mind though if you change the crank weights... you need to make your own scraper
And if I was doing it I would do them differently
thanks neil,
 
Looking at the the scrapers and their design, it doesent look too hard to make up.
 
I reckon you woul just put some cardboard agaainst the crank and spin it round  - trim, trim, trim till it clears everything.
template done.
Send template to laser cutter for clean cuts
trial fit - grind to suit
bolt into place using the existing sump bolts.
 
That really makes it simple, and there is a few hours there to get that right.
 
Do you think steel, aliminium, or plastic?
 
Im also thinking that some slosh gates in the sump might be a good wank factor idea as well, since the sump is at the front
If I was making one for myself
I'd use steel plate but then run a teflon strip close to the crank itself
But the ones I have will do for now
I have an A14 and A15 one here and 2 windage trays
Might not use the A14 one as I plan to step back to a boosted A12 for the coupe,
Scrapers, windage trays and trapdoor sump baffles are all good things, 
 
Polishing the crank is good, Knife edge is good too if your looking for every bit of HP you can find, 
de dagging inside the block and painting/ceramic coating is another option, 
 
time and $$$ is the factor, 
if your not running big cams and crazy revs, I wouldn't bother with knife crank and super light flywheel, 
having some mass makes it a bit more streetable 
 
so success on the N13 front.
 
Pick up a complete car on Monday.
 
Big thanks to Neil who found the ad for me, and for Alan for hunting down the phone number for the dude.
 
On the sump stuff, 
going to make an extra wide sump to start - extra capacity
then the slosh gates.
 
I think your right Dundee ( as usual) perhaps a knife crank is a big keen. I;; struggle to get the power to the ground as it is.
Just clean up the crank and go from there.
I knife edged a Toyota crankshaft then had it rebalanced
the tool used was an angle grinder with lots of discs and
tape on the mains and rod bearing surfaces.
Took a while but revs improved alot and only cost me
some 20 cheap chinese made grinder discs.
Probably breathed in more crap than I should have do wear
a mask if you do it.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
So picked up the Pulsating Pulsar yesterday.
 
it idles a bit high, but goes well still.
Its almost a pity that I'll strip it for the electrics.
It would make a good bush basher, or even a nifty shooting rig.
Reubs is that the old iron pushrod GM motor? if only there was an alloy pushrod head for it then it would be an interesting upgrade to the A series providing it can rev and wont be too heavy. Either way carb it and use it as a pump someday or generator.
 
Just wonderinf the twin cam kit, if you are willing to make cnc copies of it as I can sell them here in Japan
as Rob is no longer interested in making more of them last I heard. Anyone in Perth would be good but
would help me with an extra source of income than just farming atm.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
So bought up another Pulsar yesterday. 1.8l multipoint efi this time.
 
Both going to get stripped for the electrics.
 
Didnt think about keeping a motor for later use. 
the new pulsar started with a flick of the key! its an insurance write off as it had taken a punch into the front passender side fender, bending up all the steering stuff.
 
Once I pull off all the stuff, i would have to replace it to get it to run? - thats seems a bit counter productive.
 
I pose with only a carb it might work.
and on the twin cam cover plates - yep leave it to me Ill get back to you when I get a couple CNCed up. I wanted to make a spare for me anyways.
does it need twincams to pull 4 doors? 
 
Seems Tuesday is on a quest and doing a crackin job.. 
the Pulsar was a good runner, who knows why the Nissan/Holden aliance decided to do a different box in the Pullstart and the Astra.. by the time we got to JE and LD astras they were crackin cars, shame the JB Camiras had awful ancillaries, hoses, oil leaks etc.. frightened everybody, incliding mechanics
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