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Reuby Tuesdays 4 door sedan project

I found this while looking at A-Series bits a while ago... but only remembered it this morning.

https://www.peterzekert.com/for-sale/engine/engine-components/92-datsun-competition-oil-pans-wet-and-dry-sump

I think having a cutout on the extended section is a great idea.
Would make changing oil filters alot easier.

Also loos like the pickup is extended by simply adding a spacer between the block and the standard pick up.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
The spacer between the tube and sump seems like a better idea. less chance of a leak.

and the filter cutout is a nifty idea.†

My plan was to use an SR20 bottom sump pan as these are alloy, with cooling fins, and adaptor plates to mate up to any steel sump are eaisly available. - Just a cut and shut exercise.

this is one of many examples - not the one I have, but its same same really†
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/324007113030?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=324007113030&targetid=834617062731&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9070708&poi=&campaignid=6472073998&mkgroupid=77265351786&rlsatarget=aud-692203741102:pla-834617062731&abcId=1141716&merchantid=112678719&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMxtS5xXbDGWYEdNbkQHGbLTHsrwg7ikzPAOSc_ayDVIsKZKTSjCTrIaAlifEALw_wcB


I didnt think about how they might impact on the filter location - good excuse to go remote filter!

Im pretty sure my dealer has a setup sitting in his shed that needs a home.
Looks like a great bit of gear.
Looking forward to seeing the progress..
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Ive always loved the idea of using the sr bottom on many other engines
even my rotary 13b engine but realized quickly race cars were using
stock sumps on both rotaries, toyota K and datsun A series.

The stock A series sumps are more than capable of crazy hp, revs, handling etc.
Sure its great to add more but sometimes more means time and $

My suzuki carry with g13bb to g17b conversion (bored out g16) revved to 8500rpm
had a 90mm stroke and used the g13bb sump with larger pick up tube from the g16b
that I brazed with brass. Still going strong today with new owner.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"† Harold Rosenthalhttp://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
D,

Given that it was you that gave me this idea†in the first place!

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=487334

Im still keen to mod the sump, for coolness if nothing else.†
Ive got a crank wiper and windage tray coming from Kevin (at crankscrapers.com), although that has been delayed by over 12 months due to his illness.

both of which are unneccessary, but ads loads of coolness factor
Dont get me wrong but I have more than one idea
but many are just WRONG = Wank Race Only Nothing Gained†


You want another, how about machine the A series snout off the crank
completely flush with the front main seal. Then get a 17mm hole threaded
and tapped to suit a one piece billet timing belt cog and pulley setup.
This is what the latest BMW L6 does to reduce crankshaft weight and
easier front seal replacements etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=790&v=MckxlP60cnY&feature=emb_logo

at 13.10min
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"† Harold Rosenthalhttp://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688


Just some photos to show what I am planning.

You can see that the SR20 sump is pretty close to the standard datsun sump in size.

I haven't yet ordered the SR20 flange - ill get that made up locally as the premade ones are $200 + delivered.

I suspect that when I get these drawn up, that i will get more than 1 made due to the minimum order qty deal that most places roll with.

One question though - My dealer has kindly provided this sump to me, but I suspect that it may be an A14 unit, as it doesent have the small side ridges for the extra rod length.
I would never normally question my dealer† - but I dont want to cut up a perfectly good sump if its the wrong one.

I am hoping that I am just bieng pedantic for no good reason and that some a15 sumps didnt come with the ridges.
Ask DD on 1200.com but sure you need A15 unit
then you will need a fairly thick flat plate of steel
cut the sump higher up or will sit too low
move the plate forward to mimic alfa 105 units
then just weld plate on, then angle grind from
the inside to make the hole.
This way it will keep its shape but weld plate
with sump onto a block and let it sit for a day.
You want room away from the cross-member
as tall blocks dont sit well under the bonnet
of a 1k unless go 3/4 the way of the sump.
The sr20 extra capacity will help this mod.
Then you dipstick can be unchanged even
longer wont hurt, can be bent a tad to clear.

http://datsun1000.com/UserImages/d/Large/sump%20a15%20(1).jpg

Still no luck with DXF files of front plate?
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"† Harold Rosenthalhttp://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
D,

I havent had the chance to visit the dude since we spoke last - ive been busy at work and dealing with the xmas peroid chaos. Hopefully the world can get back to normal soon and everythig returns to normal.

As for the sump, Ive askedover at 1200.com for confirmation, but your suggestion is something like I was planning.
Lift up the bottom of the pan some, while still retaining a slope for drainage, and keep the total depth of the pan the same as factory so that pickup tubes and dipsticks are the same. If I make the pan deeper, ill have to extend pickups, dipsticks, and then ive got the issue of ground clearence.
This is going to be a street driven car, so potholes and speedhumps must be passable.
great, will work well and stay cooler with that bit of alloy and extra surface area
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"† Harold Rosenthalhttp://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
your dealer sux....
I know dundee - dealers always are - but once your neck deep with the dealers, you always owe them.†

I kinda feel that Im neck deep in debt with this dealer now - but like any good addict - you always go back for more....
So a minor update

I have the motor getting built for me now.
Just struggling with time so I am paying to get this built.

I am aiming to have the car running by xmas 2020 - not finished - thats a bit keen - but running and driving, even if Im sitting on a milk crate!

Im still looking for an L28 oil pump to mash together with an a-series pump for the higher volume.
The 'instructions' on datsun1200.com† (http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=High_Capacity_Oil_Pump)

are not yet clear to me - I need to think about it some more this week as to how I make the spacer and why its needed.
The spacer is needed to accomodate the wider Z oil pump gears. Best and easiest to sacrifice a second A series pump body and mill it to the desired thickness. The holes are already in the right place. The shaft diameter is also different between the A and Z pumps. From memory the A pump housing will need to be reamed to size. When determining the spacer thickness, donít forget to take into account the gaskets in between the sections.
double post
when I was playing with this the other day i was confused.

So.....
I take the L-series rotor, stator and shaft and fit that inside the a-series body- bottom section

The a-series drive gear from the a-series shaft needs to be pressed onto the l-series shaft - so that the cam can drive it.
The A-series bottom body needs to be drilled out to suit the thicker l-series shaft. I assume that the gear drive also needs to be drilled out to suit the thicker l-series shaft.

Then using a sacraficial a-series bottom body section, mill it down to accomdate the extra length of the l-series rotor/stator so that the a-series top section can bolt on.

Does that make sense?
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