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Reuby Tuesdays 4 door sedan project

Its been a long time coming. Infact this project started nearly 7 years ago, amybe more I forget now....
 
Before the jibes start about how long it been, well.... Ive got a few projects on the go.
 
Thought i had better start a thread of sorts, since I have just made more progress.
 
Yesterday, I spent a few hours witha good friend getting the engine in the bay with the gearbox.
Went to setup the clutch and ran into a minor problem.
The thrust carrier is a different size then I expected, and Im not sure I have everything I need for the clutch to work.
 
I am using a 23 output spline toyota T50 gearbox, with the mid-mounted shifter.
I have a dellow bellhousing bolted on the front.
 
This has the toyota bearing carrier installed.
I originally thought that I used the datsun clutch fork, bearing, and cable, but it seems thats not the case.
Has anyone fitted a t50 with the dellow housing into a thou?
 
PS Ill ad some pics shortly...
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
sheesh, thats alomost lomger than me...
 
and for a 4 door...
 
"pics or ban... "
Rubes
I have the T50 
I vaguely recall the instructions called for some mods to the carrier
I think we machined out the centre of the Datsun carrier alittle... and machined down the input snub on the gearbox
I have a few pics about of whats in mine if you need them
 
Oh and yes I used the Datsun fork,bearing and cable
Sorry about the non-sensical smily. I was trying to put up  a post on my phone, but all i got out was the smiley. (ill put in a comment in the site problems section in a bit).
 
Righto, so some pics for the demanding ones...
 

I cut the tunnell down the length and cut the new hole for the stick.
I also unpicked the spots that hold the tunnell to the firewall to allow for more expansion.
 
Im trying to get the engine to set as level as possible. I have about 25mm from the sump to the cross member so I can really lower the motor much more, and to do that means different engine mounts. Im curently using the early Cortina ones.
 

The standard engine bay shot, showing current angle of engine. Its nearly level. this is with the gearbox pushed hard against the now cut tunnel.
 

Underneath the gearbox. it fits pretty well into the tunnell. Havent yet made the gearbox mount, but some sandwich plates will be the winner I think.
 

A shot from the front of the car showing the engine and gearbox alignment. So far so good.
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
Neil
 
Yeah some pics would always be of help.
 
So, machine out the carrier so that it slides over the Toyota carrier slide. (which is currently too big)
 
I have the gearobx bolted up to the engine without any problems that I can see, unless the input shaft is hard up against the flywheel and Ive pulled it up tight. The bolts wernt that hard to pull up though, so i dont suspect that.
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
As seen from front of box
 

 
Bearing and carrier removed
 

 
Bearing carrier (Datsun) machined to approx 31.5mm inside diameter
 

 
Next 2 show the stub... you can possibly make out the step down AFTER the spring retainer is installed
We machined it to suit the carrier we had already machined down
From memory Dellow said to just machine the Datsun carrier right out to suit the STD Toyo snub...I felt this was too far and would weaken the carrier too much so we went with alittle from column A and alittle from column B
 

 
You will possibly not the tie wire holding the spring together... they tend to slip off if you don't do this


 
I also run a spigot bearing in the centre of the flywheel thats retained by the crank bolts
This stops the end of the input shaft flopping about
Dellow supplies a brass bush... but I prefer to use a roller bearing personally
Well another update on this

I have had the car at a panel beater now for about 4 months. He has been beavering away at the car and all the rust has been cut out and replaced.
The car has been blasted and put into basic primer.

Gearbox mounts are done, tunnel widened and sealed up.

The panel beater is onto the front fenders and bonnet now. Once these are done, he will start lining up all the doors and panels for a straight fit.

Once he has got everything straight, ill take the car back, and start the mechanicals.

Borg warner 28 spline LSD for the rear, with disk brakes (R31 skyline)

And the motor, which until now was going to be an A15 with EFi and mild turbo, aiming for 130-150hp.

Now with the mazda mod nearing success, it may end up with one of those Frankenstein's....

Now just to find a full time job to pay for it all..... Anyone what to pay me lots of cash. Ill do nothing like any good employee!!


68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
hahaha love the last line! also gotta say why didnt I think of that for the tunnel!!!!! just split it in the middle is so much easier than taking the whole thing off then putting a new one in, total genius stroke. Will love to see the final finished product.

 
Make sure you flare the front and rear guards or will suffer later once its painted and looking for wheels with a lowered stance.
 
 
The mazda head kit is all ready, the dude who makes them is a tinkering genius mad proffessor ex auto mechanic, he also has a sohc 8v speedway mazda head on an early block that will rev to 9000rpm as the head did on the B series motor.
He went for the early A12 block for a datsun 1000 he was given for free but going to 76mm bores hit water on the bore as the early blocks are thinner than later A12 and older of course.
He should have sleeved to 78mm and used the Mazda B6 pistons straight off but he does all the hard work and $$ and I just watch him do it basically in awe but also with appreciation we can learn from his efforts.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Ok small update
 
Will be getting a small cash injection into this motor.
 
Have taken delivery of the Mazda conversion setup from the Frankenstien guru himself. Very helpful.
 
I have spoken with the WA licensing board and a turbo A15 is within specs. The mazda head is no problem as they look at the block number for licensing and emmision controls etc.
 
The seatbelt plates are currently bieng installed. I have decided to put a mount point in the B-piller to make the rake for the retractors straight. Retractable belts are required for any engine modification or relicensing of a car that doesent have them, as well as brake upgrades.
 
Intrestingly, the dude I spoke with at the WA licensing board was a nissan mechanic for 20 years and is a datsun fan. He seemed to think that the A-series was made up to 2007 and delivered into Australia in forklifts. So that might be a good supply for big block A15s for the future for Aussie folks.
 
Now comes the hard work.
 
Ive got an A15 (std) sitting in the shed.
 
I spose I new need to send it off and get it checked for cracks and bored/sleved out to 78mm.
Time to chase down quotes and get that ball rolling.
 
 
 
 
 
 
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
Righto folks
 
Coupla questions about engine bits.
 
Now I know that If money was no object then this wouldnt even be a question, but these days it is, and I mean really is...
 
On the flipside, I have always subscribed to the concept of "Right tool for the right job" and "If you have time to do something twice, you have time to do it right the first time"
 
So, Given that I am now running the Mazda head on an A15 block, that will be efi (prob group/bank fire, but sequential if I can), with a turbo, aiming to run 15psi and achieve around the 130-150hp mark for realible driving. More hp is always welcome, but only if it can be drivable and realible. A 300hp monster with a 30psi tubo that hits at 4500rpm is not my idea of useable. (although very cool!)
 
I am running the T50 gearbox (see above posts) with a R31 BW LSD. 3.9 ration from memory (silouette diff).
 
How far do I need to go with this engine build?
 
eg
H-beam rods or I-beams
Forged pistons, ceramic coated, chrome coated, or plain cast units?
Head studs, or bolts?
bigger main cap studs? (is this possible in the a15?)
Full engine balanced front to back, top to bottom?
Blueprinting?
Lightened flywheel?
etc etc etc
 
I have no specific budget in mind. If pricy parts is what needs to happen, then I just save up for longer.
If anyone has an opinion of where I should get my block prepped in Perth that would be good too.
 
Cheers
 
 
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
Reubs, get your machinist a headgasket to offset the bores to suit the mazda bores for a better finish.
You will also need pistons before they can do the work.
 
I looked at boring and honing and got quoted 250-280 from most places then found FERCO
here in Vic and they quoted me 500-550 for offset sleeving using nissan ca18de or Mazda BP pistons
Now thats a cheap and brings the A15 to 1775 cc then new head gasket is easily remade by using
Robs supplier and then that will go to the database for other peeps who use the kit.
 
Im actually going for the early A12 block to avoid engineering along with 81mm 4age early pistons
which have the 18mm pin so can use my early rods that I had balanced with arp bolts.
Im using the A14 crank and that gives me 1587cc in a little short block.

The 4age pistons have the same valve angles and are proven.
 
If you go 78mm go the Mazda items but for boost you can also consider +1mm isuzu 4xc1 flat tops which
are 28.2mm comp height and bring compression down and have decent sized rings.

Im going for an NA build with 2 stock exhaust cams reground to 260 degrees and 10mm lift, webers and
cheap ebay stainless obx pipes.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
For the pistons, you just recommend some off the shelf std cast items? Thats a relief as forgies can be around the $1000 mark.
 
And you are using rods from what D?
These are standard datsun a12 (in your case) items?
 
When I go to the machinest shop, I should ask them about offset sleveing? Sorry, but this mega technical stuff is not yet in my mental repository...
 
What size are the ca18de/Mazda BP pistons in diameter? Are the rings in these setups good for the boost im planning? Both of those motors were NA, but are both modernish motors. Did they change anything for the turbo versions?
 
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
and that offset sleving is to what mm d?
 
with an 82mm stroke according to this website calculator
http://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html
 
77mm is standard 1527cc
78mm is 1567mm
79mm is 1610cc
80mm is 1949cc
81mm to 1690cc
82mm is  1732cc
83mm is 1775cc
 
how thin are the bore walls at 83mm?
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
H-beam rods or I-beams  -- Well prepared std ones will be fine @ 15 psi - ARP rod bolts
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=94
 
Forged pistons, ceramic coated, chrome coated, or plain cast units? - Cast will do at that boost
Head studs, or bolts? - Head studs is what I'm using ARP
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1117

bigger main cap studs? (is this possible in the a15?) APR here again 
Match up the length and diameters on the ARP site to suit

Full engine balanced front to back, top to bottom? YUP

Blueprinting? All part of the service

Lightened flywheel? YUP


Applied Automotive do all my engine machining (Davison St Maddington)
FERCO calculated 96mm outer diameter sleeves can be used to suit 82-83mm pistons, bore to bore total thickness will be around 4-5mm which is fine as there is no thrust force there.
 
im playing it safe and although Id like to use 83mm pistons, 81mm will do me for 1587cc instead of 1666cc
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Thanks for the tips Neil.
Are the guys at applied automotive friendly to datsuns?
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
hey D
What do yo think of this manifold to fit under the bonnet of the thou?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Racing-Turbo-Manifold-Header-90-93-Mazda-Miata-MX-5-1-6L-B6ZE-4-Cylinder-/201097024419?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMazda%7CModel%3AMiata&hash=item2ed25113a3&vxp=mtr#ht_3546wt_1074
 
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
with a t25bb that manifold will be magic! heaps of torque from low rpm
I initially looked at this one when thinking of turbo
 
When the lot is polished removing the pesky Mazda writing will be a gem!
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Hey D
 
That kit you linked looks pretty cool, but its for a 1.8l. I didnt think that the 1.8 and the 1.6 heads were the same.
 
If they are, for about  $1000 delivered thats pretty cheap, although I dont think anything other than the manifolds will be of use.
 
I was thinking of using one of these factory units for the intake
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-MX-5-Miata-Air-Intake-Manifold-1-6-1990-1993-/171349437847?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMazda%7CModel%3AMiata&hash=item27e538ed97&vxp=mtr#ht_735wt_1312
 
The factory turbo exhaust manifold doesent fit im pretty sure.
 
Im going to a mazda wrecker this week sometime to see what htey have and pricing
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
And for the turbo, I was considering using a t25 from a 300zx. Seems like perfect sizing since they were twin turbo setups and each bank was seperate. Thats 1.5l per turbo, and good for 15psi. Thats enough for now.
 
 
68 4 Door project (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
Earth First!!! We Can Mine The Other Planets Later
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