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Reuby Tuesdays 4 door sedan project

Ok, So an update on the project.

Its come to a grinding halt.
Its basically a lack of available time.
My wife has been unwell for some time and the house is needing much needed repairs and renovations. As such, what waking time I have available is looking after the family or working on the house.
Its fustrating as I was just starting to get some momentum on the project, only to have to just stop.

Hoping that by June, Ill have all the house stuff done, uni will be done (im thinking of defering for semester 2 2018) and i can get back into the saddle on this.
I hope the wife gets better, things get easier for you...

Looking foward to the updates.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Thanks Ash,

Will be spending a day or two on my green machine 4 door to get it ready for sale this weekend - so some time on a datsun, even if its not Daisy. That cash is pegged for the project, plus anything else I offload from the shed.

Its not all doom and gloom, just another speedbump is all.
All the best to your wife Reubs and your family including yourself!
Family first, hobbies last or just before sexual fantasies
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"† Harold Rosenthalhttp://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
If you do get a small ammount of Datsun time here and there, and are looking to feel like you have made some progress on things, there are† things you can do which dont take large blocks of time/cash.

  • Clean up threads with a tap and die set.
  • Polish scratches out from light/indicator lenses.
  • Remove 1 part and clean it up and put it back on etc etc.

Even the smallest improvement is still an improvement and if you do enough of them they add up.

Could be a way to get somewhere on the car while still focusing on your family.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Thanks Ash.

Your a man full of good ideas.

The car is now painted and I do need to start doing some reassembly.
I have also got the rear axle to assemble again, which is sitting on the floor still.

Part of the challange Ash is that my workshop is about 200m away from the house - now that is normally a good thing, but when you need to be about the house to keep an eye on things it presents additioanl challanges.

Like I said, its not all doom and gloom, just a speedbump.
Youll have to bring an indicator inside and polish it in the house on the top secret.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
polishing your indicator.....

geez ash, if thats you kids call it these days i must be getting old

The Mrs is very good to me really.

We aquired a huge box of spanners from an clearing sale we went to a while back.

They were pretty filthy and really just needed a clean up.
She offered to let me use the dish washer inthe house!†
Running it on 'pots and pans' function with extra powder really cleans up shed stuff nicely.

I did have to clean out any residue left, and i did do an empty run after it with bleach and its fine, but how many girls would let you do that, let alone suggest it!
Sounds like a keeper.

Friends wife was keen on baking some aluminum intercooler plumbing in the oven to krinkle coat it on Sunday ... was for her EP82 Starlet tho.

Old lenses come up amazing with a polish/buff.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
So a little update.

I am getting some more adtaptor plates made up.
I have sourced additional crank timing pulleys - B3 engine sourced.

I have decided that i was going overboard with the head. Im not just going to get it machined, port matched and polished. Not going to cover it in ceramic as was the first plan. 1 - it was just too much money, 2 - since im not leaning on the motor too hard, its largly unneccessary anyways (mostly wank factor).

Once the head is back, ill send the block, and all the assopciated parts off to get balanced, and assembled.

On the bottom pulley thing.

The guy at the wrecker today was very helpful - he gets projects and is happy to help. Most wreckers are just like carparts shops. unless you have a VIN, they dont care.

He asked me why I wasnt going to use a serpy belt and a harmonic balancer. My answer was basically.
Neither the datsun block nor many of the B family powered cars had one - it cant be that neccessary.

If i go to a serpy belt, ill need to find a place for the idler somewhere, and thats extra work. Plus, since both the alternator and the air-con unit will be down low, it puts the neccessary pulleys into a diamonnd shape of sorts, which means not much belt contact for one belt. Then it either becomes a massive snake and several idlers, or risk it not biting correctly.
If i run two serpy belts, ill run out of space between the water pump and the radiator.
I can get two v-belts into the same space as a single serpy belt

So unlessI can find a twin v-belt pulley with the correct timing pulley on it, i think it will be a plain pulley.

I know that runnign a harmonic balencer is going to be better, but since the motor will be balanced front to back, im pretty sure that ill get away without a balancer.

Anyone else want to offer an opinion?
Ive owned many Mazda cars both rotary and pistons
also worked on quite a few over the years for friends

You wont need to balance anything at all int these engines
if you get new rods, pistons you just get them to weigh the
same as each other with a tolerance of a gram will suffice.
Pulley you can get balance if its new otherwise no need.
Turbo engines dont rev as high as NA so again the need
to balance a jap engine for normal rpm is null.

Have you fitted the engine block to test the front clearance
sorry cant recall this but Ive never had issues with V belts
and sure they are not as efficient as serpies but they are
better in that they are available anywhere in case you get
stuck in the Pilabara or where ever Red Dog ventured†
V belts worked well for a century almost and last longer
than flimsy serp belts as well.

KISS is the best thing for this setup, get it to work first then
you can add to it later if you wish etc. I would do the aircon
later just better get the engine running and first with a base
tune as you will have a chance to drive it to get help with
other things if they pop up.

My concern is the sealing on the front seal, if not accurate
by your machinist or original drawings then this will be a
big headache if you have to get the big plate remade.

Be careful these new plates are up to spec as Rob had
done a fair bit to get these right.

On another note you will have a very light car with an engine
that can make 130hp stock NA with better road manners than
the same hp from a highly strung A series.with little torque.

The heads flow up to 180-299hp virtually stock for NA, the miata
yank freaks get 160 rwks with just removing slags in the castings
match porting, cams and 2mm head shave with tuned toyota 4age itbs.

Just cams will get 150hp with stock all else as these engines have
great flowing inlet and ex ancillaries. That is supercar hp for a k
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"† Harold Rosenthalhttp://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Thank D for that feedback.

After getting some other opinions and just thinking about it - your right a standard pulley - no harmonic balencer will be fine for now. - I can get carried away with that detail later if need be.

I had 5 mins to play with this stuff today, and just thought - ive forgotton something - i dont know what, but something.

Then it hit me. seals†
Crank and camshaft seals.

then it hit me again - i don't have an a14 camshaft - not sure why, but its slipped my mind previously.


So ill be down in perth Tuesday to chase down seals.
Anyone have part numbers to help the auto parts store along?
I dont have any part numbers for you sorry Reuby T.

Small chance of it... but if you end up buying seals based on physical sizing be aware that alot of seals are rotation direction specific.
They have little angled grooves inside.

So take note of rotation directions to buy the correct ones if you have to go down this path.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Thanks for that tip ash.

Im hoping that a standard crank seal will cover the bottom one and maybe a standard mazda seal for the timing pulley and fits on the camshaft.

I know that Rob (the evil mastermind behind this) would have used off the shelf items, im just not sure what.
So I went on a bit on a mission last week.

Picked up spare cam timing pulleys - 1.8l BP motor was the donor
Bottom crank timing pulley - Mazda DA 121 B3 engine was the donor. Has an extra pulley for the aircono so thats a win.
Spare wiring harness for the mazda injectors, plugs and CAS.

Picked up seals for the timing cover - Spoke to the guy on the counter about the directional stuff. He says that since all the seals and 'industrial' rated, they go both ways, so not an issue.
Crank seal 40-52-8
Cam seal 50-62-8

So far so good.

Looking at my colleciton of stuff, I realised that I dont have an a15 sump or camshaft.....
Well thats a bit of an oversight!
So I ask my local sneaky parts supplier to see if he has anything stashed in his shed, but If anyone can help out with an a15 sump and a14 camshaft (block is a14, with a15 crank) that would be great. No hurry, but im trying to get the bottom end done over the next few months.
late a12 cam should do also or midblock dizzie type.

most seals are for clockwise rotation except for older Honda
so shouldnt be an issue there. Good stuff though.
Just see if you can contact Rob on his number to confirm
what we have talked about. He doesnt mind a chat.
As him how the 1000 2door sedan went with the 8v ohc
conversion as he sold both the 120y and 1k as I remember
but whoever bought the 1k got a bargain with the 9k rpm setup.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"† Harold Rosenthalhttp://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
thanks d

Ill look for a late a12 cam .

Everyting I have at home is A10 stuff, or in a running motor that I dont want to pull down.

Since I am modding the sump with the Sr20 pan, I really only need a regular a12 pan, but its the humps on the drivers side of the pan to clear the rods that I need.

I spose I could mod an existing pan, but welding in some humps, but that seems like loads of work.

Perhaps I need to chase down an N10 pulsar sump. Those things a super thin over the cross member witha deep front section, but those old pulsars are near impossible to find these days.
So, ive found a local a15 sump from my dealer.
Hoping that he can find a late model cam shaft also, and Ill be doing a drop off this sunday if all goes to plan.

He dosesnt think that he has an a15 oil pickup to go with.

From what I can read / know, ill need the a15 tube to go with else it wont be at the bottom.

I have loads of early a10/a12 stuff, and from datsun1200.com, they wont interchange with the later blocks - bugger.

Also, i plan on fitting an SR20 winged sump, so might need a longer tube as well.

Has anyone extended an oil pick up tube? Can you buy "generic tubes" that you make fit?

The tube would need to be sealed perfeectly, since any air leak(above the oil level) would mean the pump woud fail to draw correctly..
If you extend the pick up for a bigger sump will that mean your full mark sits at the same height but the low mark could sit lower?

If so you may be making a custom dip stick.

Just measured my A14.† Full mark on the dipstick sits 98mm below block/sump gasket/join.

I just used a cabletie to hold the dipstick on the outside of the engine to see whats what.

As for pickup mods, ive helped on similar projects...
My best friend extended his pickup in an FJ20 years ago and my brother did it to a 1uz.

Both were extended for sump clearance to crossmember (foward/rearward) and both added a tab to pick up on a bolting point to make up for the extra leverage of the longer pickup tube.

Here is a link to a picture of my brothers 1uz pickup mod.

Is this info of any use to you Reuby T?
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Sure is ash.

I was prob just getting too worried about not much at all.

The key is to ensure that there is a complete seal on the joins else air will be sucked in - thats no good.†
Your brothers one just extended it longways, so no real additional work for the pump, just some extra frictional loss - but marginal at that I imagine.

I dont think it matters too much if the dipstick reads high. Even if the oil drops to the low mark on an untampered dipstick, but the pickup is still below the oil level, then thats a good thing.
The high point will still be corrrect. Sure it wont be telling me if the oil is low enough to do damage, but that doesent really matter as long as I add oil before it gets to the low mark, just like a normal setup.

The plan for my sump will be less about extra depth, although that will probably happen, and more about wings, slosh gates, crank wipers and windage plates (if they ever turn up)
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