15 Posts - Page: 1

Rat B10

Just thought I would put up some pics of my project, few new ones from the project over at datsun1200.com.
As you can see it was a bit of the mess:

The original plan was to rattle can the car in flat black and hope for the best. Of course I got carried away after realising just how much of a mess it was.
Pulling the entire front end out and putting the body in primer:

Painting the body:

Trying to organise the nuts and bolts (check the jar collection), I replaced quite a few with new ones:

Now to paint and rebuild the suspension and steering:

Adding a rubber spacer to the cross member (I glued it in):

Anyway, this is the most recent stuff I have been upto, plans for the future include disk brake front, h150 diff, a12 and a few little more aesthetic things. Hope you like!
I almost forgot, there is one more pic that is probably one of my favourites, this was after much hard work sourcing new joints. Still need to get new bushes:

The source of my inspiration can be found here:
Finn, It is all looking pretty sweet now.
I noticed you don't have a cross rod in that last pic.
Mat Dat do reco's on them, I have not tried them yet.
I have emailed them and asked for a quote, they said roughly $70, they couldn't tell me a fixed price for sure untill they can see how good/bad condition the cross rod is in.

Yahoo Auctions Japan has upper control arm bushes from time to time.
And I have heard of a guy using the lower bushes from a Ford Transit van rear leaf spring shackle,
and he reduced the thickenss of the flange on a belt sander, although I am unsure of what model Transit he used.

Nissan OEM part numbers are:

Spindle, Upper Link - 54432-18000
Rubber Bushing, Upper Link - 54450-18001
Rubber Bushing, Lower Link - 54460-18000

Cross rod has many part numbers.

Right Hand Drive.

Left Hand Drive.

Although im not sure what differences the cross rod has between Left and Right Hand Drive models, the cross rod looks symmetrical to me.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
lookin good mate, here's some nolathene numbers dundee1000 posted up on the 1200 forum


not sure if the front ones are straight fit or what haven't tried yet be easiest to ask dundee. if these bush numbers work in the front end would be good to put up in the tip section
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Thanks for the help, this site pays.
I do have a cross rod but it must have been hit pretty hard at some point as one of the sockets is pushed in and cannot move. Thanks to Clyons I should be getting a good one soon enough. I'm not sure what maddat do when they recondition them but I reckon you could bring them back to life pretty easy with some grease and new boots, i'll put something in the tips section.

They are some very helpful numbers, I should be ordering in some bushes soon enough.
I looked up in the superpro catalogue at Ford Transit shackle bushes, and they have them as OD 27mm  ID 16mm. Not sure on length. This is spot on from what I can measure whilst the arms are on the car, will look into this further
If you find the numbers for the lower link bushing and can confirm they fit, please let me know.
It is all i have left to buy for a complete freshen up of the front end.
That and a Mad Dat reco on the cross rod.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have heard other 1000 owners say that one end of their cross rod is stuck.
After looking at mine I have noticed one end moves like a ball joint and the other end only rotates.
Both ends move free and smooth, im pretty sure the rotation only on one side is standard from factory.
So im guessing that the difference between Left and Right Hand Drive models is which side the fixed end is on.
Can anyone else confirm one end fixed and one end free with their 1000 cross rod?
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Hey yes Chris kindly sent me a cross rod and one socket acts like a regular ball joint the other just spins. Much better than my old one haha. So it seems like that is the case. I have ordered new boots for mine online, I haven't actually checked if supercheap or somewhere has these, they probably do now I think about it.  Heres the link for that: Rod boots

As for bushes, sorry I was a bit confused and those measurements I made above are for the upper control arm bushes. I have not measured the lowers yet. The nolathane bush numbers do not include the lower control arm, so will need to go measure those up. Does anyone have their lower arm off the car and can give it a rough measure? Much easier than me doing it at the moment, and I can compare it to the superpro catalogue which has a couple of listings.
Hey Finn,

Sup? Hows your thou coming along? I have your badge still sitting here wrapped ready to go, given up on the badge making.

Still have the laser option available but I'll do that later-on when I get a spare moment.

Hey Chris,
Not much has happened since uni has been back, I got a scholarship so bought a couple of little things, just waiting for the time to put them in. I basically have Brand New Everything:
Bushes, bearings, sorting out r31 front brakes, master cyl, rear slaves, shocks, even a few aesthetic things like mirrors and old school roof rack. It's lookin pretty good but I need some time off!!! Watch this space.

Thats a shame about the badges, you will find one eventually I think, just takes time.
Sweet are you in final year? I am and it's killing me. Good work on the scholarship!

Regarding the brakes I am not sure how fast you are wanting to move but I'm about to make a small kit up that will come with the adapter for the booster. The calipers will fit under 13 inchers and have a big surface area so will be good.

Brackets will be flat plate if possible but more likely CNC machined, I am looking to sell the brackets on their own and leaving the buyer to source his own calipers (very easy to find and very common).

Cheers, I still have two more years to go, must be good to know you're almost done.
I am going to try out this conversion, but anything you knock up I would be in on, you could probably get away with a flat bracket with floating calipers? What calipers are you thinking? 13's would be sex, 12's impossible?
I'm looking at fitting the engine in the next week or two, does anyone have any advice for things I should prep before it goes it? When I pulled it I unbolted the gearbox and lifted just the engine, should I do the same in reverse, with engine first then fit gearbox? Or is that a real pain in the ass to align. 
Yeah, fit motor first so not to scratch the paint. The box is easy to fit from undernaeth. Just fit them together on the ground first to make sure the clutch lines up properly first to save a few curse words. Unless you have a clutch aligning tool, in which case it's pretty hard to get wrong, I've never used one, and I worked in a workshop for a few years, so if you don't have one then it's not a problem to align by eye.
Everybody get ready to turn into jelly:

Now... the rear end! by the end of the week I swear....
15 Posts - Page: 1