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Finally done, Disk brake front.

Well, after 2 days of doing the disk break conversion, scratching my head and pulling the calipers and master cylinder off about a dozen times, I have finally finished it. The only problem I have with it at the moment, is that I think it needs a break bias valve for the rear breaks, I am finding that the rears are locking before the fronts, but you've basically pulled stopped before that happens.
 
The master cylinder I bought is brand new, but came with non return valves in both circuits, so had to pull one out to get the calipers to return enough to let the wheels spin freely again, made 2 or 3 new aloy break lines and and put some new pads in as a last resort, and presto. Pintara rears on the front.
you got a dual master?
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Your m/cyl must have been for a 120y or 1200 drum all round, mine was a drum disc m/cyl. Mine works really well.
Take a photo of your m/cyl and post it, I'll take a photo of my set up tomorrow and show everyone. I blocked off my rear outlet on the splitter block and then ran the rears through the 2nd m/cyl outlet.
Put 1200 coupe wheel cylinders on the back to reduce rear brakes
 
And what master did you use and how did you connect it to the pedal ?
Yeah, I have a dual master and it was advertised as drum rear, I assumed that meant disk front, and considering one resoviour (how ever you spell it), is bigger than the other, I think it was a fair assumption.
 I did the same with the rear brake line, but didn't have a blank off, so just crushed a bit of pipe and screwed it in. It seems to have worked OK, it dosn't leak, but not real pretty either.
 
As for the wheels, I'm using 14" Pintara steel rims with 165/60/14 tyres, so 1200 rims would be too small and casue the rear breaks to lock earlier I think. Possibly need to rebuild the calipers, I had some problems with them sticking even after removing the non return valve out of the master cylinder, so I pulled them both down, took the centre bits out of the pistons so they don't screw in and out any more and cleaned them all up and put them back on the car. It could still be causing me some problems though.
 
 Link to the master cylinder I bought on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160605608566?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
This is the link to the master I used, but dosn't quite look like that, and didn't come with the conecting rod either. As I said, one fluid bank is bigger than the other and some of the castings on the side are different. I just took the conecting rod from my old master and put it in the new one. It bolts straight up to the firewall, and hooks up to the brake pedal the same as the original one, no modification at all. 
 
By the way, the entire set up was not my idea at all, it all came from seeing just how easy it was to do when I saw Mikey85's ute, so thanx mate your the #uc$%# MAN!!!!!
 
 Plenty of guard clearence, not lowered, but scrubs on the inside at the back on full lock.
 
 What she looks like with the 14's at standard suspension height.
 
 Brake master cylinder and midified brake lines. The bottom right outlet in the block is blanked off, but you can't see it in this photo.
 
 Bolts straight to firewall, no mods to pedal or firewall at all.
 
 This is the part of the hand brake mech that is inside the piston it's slef. I took it all out, because the hand brake on the calipers were giving me some problems.
 
 
 
 
PROBLEMS I HAD AND HOW I FIXED THEM.
 
HAND BRAKE MECHANISM
I pulled the mechanism out of the piston, but left the screw part in because that is the bit with the seal for the back of the caliper.
 
FRONT WHEELS LOCKING ON
 
I found that there was a non return valve in the master cylinder, so I took it out. There is still one in the circuit that operated the drums on the back. Also, I was using the old pads that came with the calipers, I replaced these with new ones, as I should have done in the first place.
 
BACKING PLATES FOULING ON STEERING ARM
 
Trim the bracket.
 
BRAKE LINES DIDN'T FIT.
 
The brake lines were the wrong shape, and the one for the drums needed to be moved to the master cylinder, and taken out of the brak splitter block. I used brake line joiners from a Daywoo (can't spell, sorry), which you get from under the bonet, cut a couple of meters of brake line out of a car at the wreckers, and took a hand full of the line male bolts ( the threaded parts on the hard lines). I used a pipe cutter and a flaring tool my Dad gave me to manufacture new brake lines to suit. Using the joiners, it really was a simple job because the brake line is pretty easy to shape by hand.
 
REARS LOCKING BEFORE THE FRONT
 
Still having problems with that, but not too bad at all. First of all I was using old pads, but when I put new ones in they came good. Maby the pads still need a bit more bedding in, but if all else fails I will install a brake bias valve on the drums.
 
PROBLEM WITH THE SETUP OVER ALLL
 
The only real problem with this, cheap and VERY EASY setup, is that the disks are pintara rear, so they are solid disks and not vented rotors. The caliper does not alow for vented rotors, so under extreme use, like racing, there MAY be some issues with the heat from the rotors. I am only speculating here, they dosn't weigh much, but could be a problem.
 
 There is also one other problem, if you can call it that. Aparantley these disks will only fit under 14's. I have seen other setups on the net using these calipers, and fitting them under 13's, but I don't really know how.
 
If you want the ins and outs of assembly of this BOLT ON setup, check out Mikey85, he has all the photos and explenations for it all, but really could not have cost less or been easier to do. I have posted a link to a guy who sells the pintara brake parts really cheap on here before, it was an e-bay add.
thats weird, only thing i could think of is that the lines are the wrong way around on the master??
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Yeah, I thought of that, swapped the lines over and the same thing. Except that the brake pedal would hit some sort of stop apout 1/4 the way down, and would not go any further, so I changed it back. I have e-mailed the supplier and they are sending me an other master cylinder because it was not the one that I actuall ordered, so it might be the master cylinder. Maby the rear drums are adjusted up a bit too far too, they got hot and started to bind up on me today, but once they cooled the breaks were back to normal, so have to see how it goes on the way home from work today.
that sucks hopefully the master they send you is the right one
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Hey mate, seams like your sorting it out, I'll go out and take a photo in a minute to show you my m/cyl. Mine is a bit different to yours so it might be the m/cyl. I had no trouble with the auto adjusted on the calipers, its basically auto adjusts like the rear on the skyline and I dont have much rolling resistance problems. I'll find the ebay item I bought and you might be able to compare. Cheers
This is the ebay m/cyl
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/330598807461?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Hey I just looked at your link and it looks like a drum alround m/cyl. I'm pretty sure 120y's didnt come out with discs, only the gx and gl models did. Not sure?? But if you look at my link you'll see my m/cyl up close.
77+ 120y's came out with discs brakes, i've got a disk brake setup off a 120y lying around somewhere. pretty sure after 76 they used disk brakes to comply with adr's not 100% sure tho
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Mike, that one is a genuine part I think. The one I'm getting is Tiwanese, aftermarket stuff, but basically the same, I think. will have to wait and see when it arrives.
First thing I think you should do is sort out the pushrod to pedal
I know it fit straight on
But what you might not have realised is that the ball is holding the piston down slightly
That cyl is not designed for a captive rod
And hence its not clearanced on the piston like the original and when you put the rod in with the plate it holds the piston down alittle
Its not much but its enough to cause an issue
 
Sort this out first before you try anything else
I don't completley understand, The clip and washer at the back of the master cylinder is the same as the original, and it is cupped the same as the original, the rod sits a little deeper into the master cylinder, but it is still cupped. Is that still not corect?
Hey I'll post my photos on my ute's project topic, the only problem I found was I had to adjust the pedal cause it wasn't returning enough to load the cylinder and it wasnt giving me any brakes.
13s fit easily with a little filing of the caliper fins.
 
Good write up well done!!!
 
Also R8 and R10 gordinis had thinner smaller discs all round and race
hard in all kinds of events without issues. Also they weighed 200kg more!!
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Thanx neil, the new master cylinder has a rod with it, so that should fix that, when it gets here.
 
And I think you might be right Mickey85, that master may well be for drums all round. BUGGER!!!!!
I think if I do the same with that one that I have with this one, pull the non return out of one circuit, that should solve the problem. Maby just need to us a bigger fluid bank for the disks.
 
Is there any reason that would not work?
 
Also Neil, I didn't read you earlier post properly, 1200 coupe slave cylinders, are they bigger than 1000 ones? That would fix the hydraulic ratios if that was the case.
 
And for the record, the brakes are really good now, before they get too hot, the pads probably needed a bit more bedding in. Still very happy with it, just need to sort this mastrer cylinder.
The 1200 coupe rear cylinders are smaller
So it will reduce the braking to the rear and maybe stop your lockup
 
Its hard to tell what cylinder your using from those pics
But... I think you have an issue with the pistons not returning to rest and thus holding the brakes... hence the getting hot
Pics of the piston without the circulip and plate would be nice
 
When I do my disc conversions I supply a 3/4 or 13/16 master (120Y or sunny) and make a rod to suit
Since both those cylinders are designed to go onto a booster
The one Mikey put up will work and already has the captive pushrod
Since your running a small piston caliper (1.5" that will do
But I use a bigger one cause I use larger calipers and vented discs
What you have done is better than drums... but its a small setup
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