I guess it will be a case of wire brush later as it is all packed up now.
 
Had a quick play in the shed this afternoon.
I used a bicycle v brake noodle (flexible type) to allow a 180deg turn of my choke cable. (Also  bicycle cable).
 
I used the mounting part from an old carb and made up a bracket from 2mm steel.
 
I also needed to file the aluminium end of the brake cable noodle down from 6mm OD to 5mm OD to fit into the webers choke cable location.

 
This should allow a more direct cable routing path.

As part of my goal to add AC into my 1000 I have decided to custom build a heater/AC box in the general styling of the original hearer box.
 
Original VS new.

 
I bought an aftermarket fan and the smallest heater and evap cores that I could find which worked out to be...
 
D22 Navara Heater Core. 
NM Pajero Rear evap Core.
Spal Fan.

 
The box is very basic with only fresh air in and cabin or windscreen venting options.
 
   
 
Venting to cabin is controlled by either opening or closing the main door on the front and venting to windscreen is controlled by operation of a diverter flap behind the main venting door.
 
 
Venting is transferred from the box to demister vents via radiator hose.
And airflow is split internally to two outlets on the heater box.
  
 
This project turned out to be quite complicated requiring alot of parts.

 
but I still made sure that I took the time to add in some special details to keep it looking natural when in place.
 
 
I still need to wire up my fan and connect heater tap controls, hoses & AC lines.
 
But am happy with it all so far.

Ash!!! I'm sure you have written my address down incorrectly again... 
none of these awesome B10 custom gear has showed up yet??? 

tracking numbers? 
 
did you get the K&N at a good price? I'm chasing one as well..

I have been ignoring the car and putting my time and money into mountain bikes for the past few months, but recently got a good price on a GX exhaust manifold so put in some garage time again to make a start on the missing 2nd half of my manifold.
 
I had a flange water cut in 304 stainless steel and a gasket cut in copper and pieced together the rest from generic  ebay pipes and bends.
 
 
 
I had a friend weld it together for me, So to make the favour a little easier for him I made up a jig for tack welding it all together.

 
The weird fat part on the end is my attempt at an antireversion chamber.
which is just a pipe inside a pipe with a taper at both ends.

The idea being...Exhaust gasses travel away from the engine freely but shockwaves bouncing towards the engine become reduced where the two pipes sit inside each other causing more efficent gas flow.
I heard about this on the internet so it must work right?, giving it a try.
 
 
The length of the chamber does set my exhaust height approx 25mm lower than whats currentlly  in the car so when its time to install and work out the rest of the exhaust system it might get removed if height/sizing dosn't allow.
 
I wont really know exact ground clearances until its all in, so time will tell.
 
I have also added a V-Band near the engine/gearbox junction to make gearbox removal/fitment easier if I feel I need the exhaust out of the way when doing box swaps/clutches etc in the future.
 
Hope it works, I sure do like the look of it so far.
 
Ash.

red bits are going to look insane with that cream body
you give more love to your car than Ive done to anything
or anyone in my life 

The anal make up in me no longer loves any datsun blue in your engine bay 
 
Red, black and alloy bits with that cream is all my anus wants to see so....
.....will make sure I keep my pants on at all times from now on when
perving at your work 

ummmmm, My A14 in the Red wags is in fact holden Grey motor grey... 
 
that rocker cover looks awesome...

My oil catchcan arrived in the post today.
 
I decided on a 750ml proflow can.
 
When redoing hoses, i decided to use a different air filter as I had a K@N filter sitting around doing nothing.
 
While the filter housing was off I noticed my venturis were a little loose.
 
After tightening them back up my car has so much more low end torque than it did before.
 
I am happy as with how it is coming together now.
 
. 

I have also made a start on a rear brake swap for my 1000.
Ive roughly based my swap on this car as it looks to be a well thought out swap.
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=470830#forumpost470830
 
I already have a front swap mostly sorted out. (need to rebuild calipers and do brake lines)
But is essentially the maddat swap or similar to the car in the link above.
 
I have decided to use S14 calipers instead of R31 for my rear brake swap as I prefer how the S14 handbrake cables mount.
Piston Diameters are the same and brake pads are close enough in size for me to consider this the same from a brake bias/proportioning point of view.
 
Ive paired them up with some CB CC Honda Accord rotors RDA471
As these had a hat height I could work with, were 4x114.3 and had a similar dia and thickness to the s14 stuff.
 

 
I mounted from off the back with 12mm steel plate to set my caliper offset, and used 10mm steel as my caliper mounting bracket.
These did take quite a bit of custom fitting to match up to the diff shape, so If I had my time again I think id use R31 from an effort/result point of view.
 
But done now, so im happy.
 
 
(yes I did the worlds thickest paint job and bolted it up wet, call me impatient)
 
I have done this on a spare 1000 diff which I have also fitted a 3.9:1 H150 Centre into, using a 2mm steel spacer plate that I had made up previously.
And have also had the diff shop put new bearings on the axels.

 
So all in all very little has been done to my car latley.
I have been obsessivley focusing on buying new tools and organising my garage in an effort to make working on the car as fun as i can make it.
 
Ash.

We need a like button
 
Good work