16 Posts - Page: 1

Brake booster, Any one done it?

I saw a thread on here about some custom brackets, using a 720 master, but can't find any follow up. Is there a conversion out there, or just point me in the direction of the info, if this has already been covered.
 
I have looked, but can't find anything here.
Is this what you were looking for?
http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=58
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
yea nothings gone ahead. best to get a small can booster from maddat and mount that in there, the booster from maddat has got short studs. im not sure how plum the firewall is in the 1000's but if its pretty plum you might be able to mount it straight to the firewall??
 
why do you want a booster?
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
theres a dba46 or something avail for 85bucks delivered from China
someone in datsun1200 has ordered one and usually cost over 300
for the reco or locally sourced ones.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Yeah Ash, thats what I was talking about.
 
I want a booster because the preasure that you have to apply to get the brakes to work is huge. The brakes I just put on are awsome, but shit you gotta push to get em on. I actually had to apply less preasure to get the drums to work. Don't know if there is an other problem, but figured this would help.
Thats strange cause my pedal is really good. All I've done is cleaned the pistons on the calipers, new pads and changed my m/cyl and I have good brakes. Your more than welcome to drive my ute to see if theres any difference. There seams like theres more of a problem if you need alot of pressure to brake.
yea mines real easy as well, your not having much luck dude by the sounds of it
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
I've had 1000's for about 28 years
Disc brakes on them for about 20 yrs
And never have I used or needed a booster
 
I'll give you a tip
The piston diameter in your R31 rear calipers are only 1.5" in diameter
They don't apply alot of force to the disc
If you ran say... 2" pistons you would find the effort required to be much less
 
So if say you could find a pair of Girlock front calipers that will go onto the same brackets
They also have 2 1/8" pistons and will change the characteristics and pedal feel immensely
This would facilitate the need for a larger master cylinder though.. .and making a pushrod to suit
I have used the 11/16,  3/4 and 13/16 masters on my cars
The pedal height changes and firms up the larger cylinder you go
My wagon currently runs a 13/16 and I like the firmness and can certainly stop
3/4 might be a good compromise for most people
 
Commodore rear is also 1.5" so no point changing to those... as its the same size as the R31
Unless your calipers have an issue thats causing it
But I believe that setup is too small personally
does the 31 calliper have handbrake deal Neil? do they work without all that gear inside?
there is a couple of the Neil complete kits over here in the west,I know 1 possibly 2 are for sale..
 
Billet Hubs, rotors, Callipers (Kits), Master cyl, wheel cyls, braided hoses, pretty full on kit, tried tested and a quality product..
Another 1200 member playing with this kit used VS commodore calipers
instead of r31 ones as it has an advantage in size and also the way handbrake
is setup can be removed or something cant remember.
 
The renault Gordini 8 had all round discs or about 8mm thickness and around
215mm diameter and stopped really well in racing with venting helping to keep
them cool and this car is easily 200kg heavier than a thouee.
 
Pintara rears are not the best but certainly better than drums
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
The VS rear caliper is the same piston size
It will offer no improvement in braking efficiency to the R31
Too small I say
How heavy should the pedal be compared to the standard brakes?
So no improvement at all even size or handbrake removal?
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Softer and more progressive than drums
Thats how my cars feel anyway
 
But with the hydraulic (dis) advantage you have... its not going to work as well
Plus I'm a big fat bastard
 
The commy caliper is the same physical size , same piston size , same pad size
Just the removal of the handbrake
So I don't see it really being any better.... but I wouldn't be using the handbrake style caliper anyway
Subaru ran a handbrake on the front for years... as did Saab etc .. never been a fan
I have now re-kitted the calipers. The pedal feel is better, because the calipers are returning properly, but still locking the rears first, even after reducing the size of the slaves. I have ordered an adjustable brake bias valve to solve this problem. The braking on the front seems to be slowly getting better, maby something to do with the disks, since I have definatley overheated them and the pads repetedly to get to this point. There is no longer any rolling resistance which is fantastic.
 
The preasure on the pedal is pretty much the same as standard I think, and there has been some improvment in the brake performance, which I find weird since the rears did not lock first before the conversion. The braking is more gradual as you said neil.
 
Removing the handbrake mech from the calipers fixed the problem I had, in that the calipers would not let go, but no other change to braking. For all intents and pourposes they are no longer hand brak calipers, that part of the insides is no longer there.
 
So, OK then Neil, bigger calipers? Don't supose you know what calipers would bolt on to thoes brackets then?
 
What setup do you run?
16 Posts - Page: 1