Yep I'll be doing the cardboard deal. Just need better welding skills.
I know of another 1000 about 2 hours away I'd love to get to save that one too I need to use the a10 crate engine I have.

Sand blasting is the best solution for this sort of rust, most work shops & metal fabricators would have one. Otherwise, seeing how many projects you get into it might be worth investing in one.
 
Here is my B10 in Papua New Guinea up on the stand, I blasted the whole thing in no time. Had two mammoth compressors to help me along though.
 

 

Looking very nice, any chance Derrick you can do a welding course in your area?
Will definitely help you with more confidence and skills that you can use beyond the 1k.
I remember seen the sport sedan kb10 front end totally devoid of inner guards and all
tubular supports for the front suspension and connected to the inner cage setup.
Rust was no longer and issue on that beast.

Well I'm starting to remover the undercoating and paint with pain streipper cant aford the sandblasting so this the next best thing. 


Any one have some tips on a color? I don't think I want to do the blue

wow, a Block heater in your spare Junk motor..
I like that...

Personally Im painting my tudor b10 in mint, peppermint cream or old english moss green
as all the chrome and black parts look awesome on it, Black watanabe centre with polished
chrome lips and red pinwall tyres will highlight it very well. You can do a super tough paint
called Por15 whitecoat tinted with a bit of green and you can apply it with a good roller as
it doesnt run or leave orange peel then its tougher than anything Ive ever come across.
You could also do baby blue using the same method. Keep all these underguard areas black
though as you will want it all dark in these areas so it wont stand out too much and ruin
the attention the rest of the duco deserves.

Rear windows out. 

i've seen people paint the hoodlining, as it's glued to the roof, works pretty well,

If you are going to paint the lining have a look into vinyl dye, it comes in a spray can and looks just like vinyl when it dries.
it is good stuff.
 
I just finished scanning in some pics and copied the nissan procedure for removal and installation of leaf springs.
http://www.datsun1000.com/PageView.asp?PageID=89
 
It is not all that clear from your question about the front bolts on your leaf spring.
On the inside face of your leaf spring mount you should have a nut (14mm spanner) that you will need to undo first.
Then on the outside face of the leaf spring mount undo the bolt that nut came off.
 
When I did mine there was a bit of wrestling involved to get the rear bushes out and new ones in (I ended up using liquid hand soap to get it all pressed in there).
 
I noticed in your pics that your car is supported by the leaf springs at the moment, make sure you support the car by the chassis/body before undoing the leaf spring bolts to avoid being squashed.
 
Having a jack under the leaf makes a huge difference in both removal and installation of your leafs.
Only use it to adjust your leaf position so the brackets line up with the bushings.
Do not use it to hold the car up if you don't like being crushed by your datsun.
 
Good luck.

Ya I had it on jacks when I pulled the diff I just have it like that to roll around the shop as its on a wheel dolly. 
The front bushing looks odd do u need to hammer them out i have both nuts removed but i don't see how it comes aparts.
 
Also a plus all my shocks are still holding pretty good for a stock car. Over all I think this little gals low milage at 57000 or so I'll have to check the odomiter. It was owned by a old lady and I'm the 3rd owner 2nd owner never drove it due to bad master cyl.