14 Posts - Page: 1

Brake Master Cylinder Upgrades, Upsizing the master cylinder

Hi,

Thought I'd mention the setup that I put in a short while ago.

It is nothing special but it has had a big improvement, I used the 7/8ths master cylinder from a 720 ute, it's a big bugger and needs more push and travels a little less than the stock master cylinder.

I had to adapt the pushrod from the original master to the bigger 7/8ths unit.

This unit can also be aplied to the 120y booster if you have plans to boost the brakes also. I have some 120y booster adapters getting made up that save you from having to drill more holes in the firewall, so it makes the whole procedure a straight bolt-on.

Just thought I'd put it out there as many tend to go with the 120y cylinder which seems to attract alot more money. Here us a link to a brand new unit that you might want to consider, perhaps inquire about the postage costs because I think they may actually be cheaper than what they say.

Mexican Master Cylinders

Here is the adapter bracket thingymahjig. The four-bolt flange is the one that bolts to the small can booster and the two bolt flange goes to your firewall. I'm making these up soon. Like I said not much to get excited  about but these save you having to unnecessarily drill new holes.




WTF?

I resized the image but it stil comes out gargantuan. Please help?!
The text editor I'm using for this site is called tinyMCE. It was originally intended to edit HTML code, but it's been adapted for this site to create BBcode. The image button brings up a popup with features that aren't included in BBcode. For example, image size.

Unfortunately, what you'll have to do is resize the image before uploading it.

In the future, depending on free time, I may implement an "upload image" feature within the site, so that you don't have to upload to other sites like photobucket etc.
I use 3/4 or 13/16 ones usually when I do my conversions
Still gives you some pedal feel and displacement

&/8 ones can be had local for $80 rather than shipping out of Mexico
7/8 was also used on the bigger sedans, 240,260,280C and Z cars aswell as the commercials

But yes they all mount to a booster so rod mods are required
So when you want better pedal feel, people go with a larger bore cylinder? Just a little unsure what this does to the brakes. Would a 11/16" one still be OK if it could be had for cheap?
You have mentioned that the pedal travel is less, is this always the case and is there enough to allow heel toe driving?
Broseph,

I think with larger bore it is a heavier pedal (not much different to stock really) but shorter travel, a sharp short stab with the foot will bring it to a halt fairly quick. With smaller bores it is an easier pedal but much longer travel. The twin reservoirs each have their own cells of fluid and they share the same stroke, so the benefits are increase brake pressure on the braking (better braking) more fluid capacity, the 720 master cylinders also have a float level wired in so if you rig it up right I'm pretty sure you get a warning light for low fluid.

I think 11/16 would be fine. It isn't mush less travel then the stock cylinder, but it is just a little less.

Once you put a booster on though it'd be a huge increase over stock.

I'm going for twin early 120y calipers on the front end of my car, so I had four calipers all up. It's a bit excessive but they're kinda light and I'm so paranoid about my car now I want brakes that will just about hurt when they're engaged....
i'd be pretty interested in one of these setups, are you doing a group buy sorta thing chris?
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Nah I'm not buying the master cylinders. As neil said they're available here locally for $80.00 which is pretty damn good really, last one I checked was priced at $120 new.
oh rito so just the brackets, let us know when your gettin em done
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Yeah they'll be tricky little buggers to weld but should be doable. They just neaten things up. If you look on the firewall the exsiting to bolts actually have a decent base to bolt into.

When you redrill the new holes all you bolt to is flat sheet metal, there's no bracing or folds to help strengthen the mounting. So these adapters are meant to neaten things up and retain the proper bolting locations.
are you using aluminium, stainless or mild steel?
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Umm was planning on mild steel, aluminium is quite expensive to cut. I think I drew that one to 4mm plate but maybe 3mm would work.
polished ss would look nice *drool*,  if you wanted to you could send them to me and i could tig weld them if it's cost effective
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Sounds great Leith, I'll give you a buzz once they're ready to go ahead.
14 Posts - Page: 1