9 Posts - Page: 1

Heater off and heat tap issues, stuck on heat

Anyone have issues with the brass heater lever/switch on the bottom right near the drivers clutch?
Mine seems to be stuck on heat and cant turn it to the off position
 
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
No, have not had any problems with mine.
I'm assuming yours has corroded from sitting with water in it?
 
My first step is usually INOX when things are stuck, but in this case im not sure what this would mean for your seals.
HMMM? hope you find a solution D.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I turned mine off years ago and it started dripping. soooo, i turned it back on, and over a period of weeks it went to a slow weep and then stopped. I removed the handle and haven't had a problem in years!
 
I've had a ball valve sitting in the shed to put in the heater line under the bonnet for years . . . winter is coming aroung again, so it will stay untouched for another year at least. . .
try filling the heater core with soluble oil it works its way out the tap worked for me. I have always been able to replace the o ring seals in the tap when they start leaking. Most expensive problem is replacing the core not cheap to have one made!!  I usually leave my heater turned on and just turn off the airflow through it
I have been a long time member of the 1200 club but found this site. As I have a coupe this is where I should be.
sounds like a plan, thank you any particular soluble oil brand?
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
In all my heater units, the heater tap is very tight and borders on seized solid, hence the welded tab you have D.

I have pulled mine apart a few times and soaked the O-rings in molycoat 111 (oxygen friendly o-ring grease). If the O-rings are saveable, then molycoat will do it.

As for replacing the heater core, I took mine to a radiator place, and they re-cored it for me. its just a mini radiator after all. It was a while back, but I don't recall it costing a fortune.

it's a very simple spindle, o ring sealed as Tuesday mentioned,
they seize in the bore, once worked free you can replace the O ring, there is a grubscrew to stop the spindle comming out,
lube it up nicely when you refit it, and make sure you cycle it on and off, and it will keep working, or leave it in the on positionand use the air flap to regulate the heat....
I use good old castrol soluble oil run it for a couple of days if you leave it to long can tend to soften the hoses. I agree with dundee leave the heater tap on the flaps do control the heat. my last heater core cost me $140.00 and agree they are only a  mini radiator but if they don't stock them ( no one does lol) as soon as they say modify one to suit mate you pay big time.
I have been a long time member of the 1200 club but found this site. As I have a coupe this is where I should be.
Thank you guys have tried many things and
this bad egg is oiled to the bone but no luck there,
but found another in my stash with a new core!
it works perfect just in time for winter blues.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
9 Posts - Page: 1