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Blueyes Disk conversion... , upgrade the front brakes...

If you use Comm pads, there is a big selection of compounds race pads etc, I'm using the toyota pads as a good fella had a couple of sets of oldskool compound that work well, 
As for Master cyl, there is 3 sizes depending on the travel/feel you want, Neil will have sizes, mabee part numbers...
Someone correct me if they have personally experienced this "issue". from my first hand experience, the front locks before the rears with the setup I mentioned. The bias issue might have been the non return valve in the master.
I also emailed maddat and this is the setup they sell, I even asked about the bias issue and there is none.
Still banging on with this. Welded up my bracket holes the other night, just need a grind back and redrill.
Still on the hunt for commodore rear calipers.
Purchased the JB1196 master from these guys -> http://www.allpartsautomotive.com.au/ Just under $92 delivered (hasn't arrived yet).
Keep at it Pedro, good work, 
I may be wrong but i think the maddat kit uses Comm front callipers, (well that was their first kit, )
if you search on 1200.com there is a heap of info on Thou disc conversions, 
I think it was matto1kute or datto1000wagon that had details of the bias issues, 
and again, this isn't a Pi$$ing competition, it's a suggestion, it works and the numbers add up, if you want to try something different, go for it, if it works.. I'm all for it.. 
cheers, Dundee.
Got some commodore calipers, appears the Stanza girlocks won't work as they are wider than the commdore caliper mounting frame, so will need to push forward with the commodores. Also disregard my comment on page 2 around VT calipers, I had a mind blank and was looking at VT front calipers, so there is a chance rear VT calipers may still work.
I run on limited time with family life, so ducked down to the shed and welded these in the dark (hence the overkill on welding the holes), ground them back in the days afterwards. Pics below that show the sectioning of the bracket on the side required to get them on (similar to what is required when doing R31 rears on a 510 A arm).

I left one hole as that will assist with lining up and marking for the other 3 holes as it kind of overlaps. Will drive the other 3 then weld that one up and redrill.
Still got no idea if this will all work, but should know soon enough. Need to buy myself a length of bundy tube for new brake lines.
New Master cylinder arrived (JB1196 11/16) but didn't come with the pushrod. Have you guys that have ordered previously got a push rod with yours?
Pics for historical reference

1196 sits on a booster usually
So you'll have to make a pushrod
Or change it for a JB1117 which is the 11/16 coupe one with pushrod
Don't try use the std pushrod in the 1196 as it will hold the piston down and not work properly
Hmm, I bought it based off the info in the datsun1200.com wiki which is usually reliable;
JB1196 Tokico Dual Bore: 11/16 inch (17.46 mm) $85 AUD (with pushrod)
* Repair Kit K7638X Tokico

I have the old single piston master so I'm assuming that clip pictured in the back of the master holds a push rod in? Hopefully can remove from old one and adapt to the new one...
So I managed to get the pushrod out of the old single piston master, pics for reference

The circlip style retainer broke when removing (fair enough it's 50 years old)

Here is what the push rod looks like on non boosted car

No real room for a booster on a P411, I'd need to move the battery and drill holes in the firewall, not on this project!
So I attempted to put the non boosted push rod in the new master (was rushing as time was limited). Removed the circlip for the new master and pulled out the washer. Put in the non boosted push rod and after much stuffing around got the circlip back in.

Throught the day was thinking about and started thinking what I had done was wrong. A quick message to Neil confirmed my suspicion.
So now I need to make myself a new push rod, or I reckon I can machine the end of the existing one off and use it if the length is correct, my preference is to use a complete replacement but retain the clevis.
Also got around to marking and drilling my caliper brackets, I used the old drum retaining plate as a guide. First bracket I did was average, so the holes are slightly larger, but doesn't matter at the end of the day as the centre locates it just fine.

I then flipped it over and used the first one as a rough guide for the second one

Apologies for the spamming of this thread, but I think the pictures help illustrate for future people trying this conversion.
Hey Guys,
Is this the way you guys mounted your caliper brackets on your 1k's? or were they flipped the opposite way to get the caliper mount ear closer to the disc?

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