http://classicgarage.com/konshocforni15.html

I have a two 1000 parts books and one 1200 parts books here, I looked up shocks for you and the part numbers do not match between the two cars.
Im not sure what the differences are, it would definatley be different compression and rebound values as 1200's weigh more than 1000's do.
1000's even had different rates between models.
 
The mounting points look the same as a 1000 rear shock.
You may need to press different rubbers in the lower end if the hole is a different size to a 1000 shock?

Im not too sure on lengths for 1200's either.
 
Stock 1000 rear shock absorber info is as follows...
 
160mm of travel.
B10 Damping force 0.3m/Sec = 70Kg/25Kg. (Pull/Push)
VB10 Damping force 0.3m/Sec =105Kg/35Kg. (Pull/Push)
B10's had a leaf spring with a rate of 1.45Kg/mm and VB10's 3.95Kg/mm.
Values taken from nissan factory service bulliten (1966 Vol-69).
 
Although when I measured a genuine nissan 1000 rear shock taken from a B20 ute, It measured...
440mm extended, 265mm compressed. (175mm Travel)
(Measured from the centre of the bottom mounting bolt to the shoulder that the rubbers press against on the top end).
 
Probably too much info, But there it is if you need it.
 
 
Pedders list Rear shocks for 1000's if all else fails.

Thank you for the info!!! 
 
I was very interested in the full extension and compression measurements.
However once lowered is there a way to fathom this into those values?
 
Im lowering my vb10 van further using blocks as I already almost flattened
the stock springs and added another extra 12.5 cm  leaf which makes it
rock hard but no body roll. I left them slightly curved for better performance 
and decided blocks will have to be used for ease of further lowering without
going so far that I cant reverse the process easily or cheaply. 
 
So instead of 3.95kg/mm its about 5.5kg/mm and one of the reasons it handles
so well to the point where a sr20det race suspensioned 1600 owner had trouble
comprehending I used leafs all round to pull away from him through the hills.
Nathan said "what suspension setup and engine do you have? it hardly body
rolled at all when you where flying in those curves"

My coupe handles horribly compared to the wagon. The first thing I learned from leaf sprung
cars is to never just use blocks but harden the rear leafs with commercial grade ones and
go as close as possible to flattening them with just a slight curve, Im talking hardly anything.
Biggest issue with leafs is, if you have anything with more than a hardly noticeable curve
it will handle like crap as the metal is much stronger in it original flat layout or it will twist
and flex due to the angles which are multiplied exponentially.
 
The front springs could vary from model to model? Ive never had a problem with just cutting
the rubber support and lowering it. The rear is the biggest issue if you can harden up the rear
lower it all round to an even height not sitting higher at the rear, even slightly lower at the rear
is even better for weight transferrence like Ive done in my b10. Have a look at the leaf sprung
rallye club cars in the UK theres footage on youtube, they are all lower at the back and when
I did this it made a world of difference.
 
The shockers is my next step and we need shorter ones for sure. Maybe knowing the stock b10
com and ext measurements minus the amount the car has gone should be all thats needed.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?viewmode=compact&order=ASC&topic_id=13181&forum=1