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Finally done, Disk brake front.

That explains it much better, thanx. I have 2 brand new 11/16 rear wheel cylinders at home, and the ones in the car are 20.something mm, so I was planning on putting them in tomorrow. As for the push rod from the master, you were right, I took it out and made a new one, and it has sloved the brake dragging, I think, but first I made it too small, then too long, so spacing the master cylinder out till I know where it should be so I know how much to trim off the push rod.
 
 I was also hoping to achieve a better breake balance in the front, particularly in the wet, I was not happy with the drums at all, and that seems to have been the major improvment.
 
Thanx for the input, you have helped me solve a few problems that I would still be scratching my head over.
 
 
 
Then next Day
 
Ah, thats better, new wheel cylinders and put a kit throught the carby, now she stops on a dime, and runs perfectly.
Ok ran into the HR disc setup that Im thinking of using for my Mazda 800 2 door wagon
and was surprised the measurements are worse than the Pintara rear ones yet many use
them on custom old holdens and other heavier cars almost twice the weight of datsun 1000s.
 
Not sure on caliper pad area but so far....
 
pinnies
260 diameter x 10.4mm thickness  height 60mm    centre hole 68mm    4 x 114.3mm stud pattern
 
HR Whoreden
253 diameter x 9.7mm thickness   height 50mm   centre hole 72mm    5 x 92.07 stud pattern
 
I might have to use the Pinnie setup for my Mazda 800 also since they are more avail but
will need to redrill for the horrible HR stud pattern which Im not sure is allowed.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
HR's bolt to a hub not float over the top
And I think the disc itself is threaded
 
The stud pattern for a HR is actially 1.25" (108mm)
I don't think you can adapt a HR disc to much in itself
The Master of Brakes puts a stop to any misinformation 
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
I was thinking the same thing,
Thank you Neil, you have been a world of information latley.
You are like a brake encyclopedia.
Im sure you have saved us alot of time and money many times over with what you have been saying about brake setups.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have put an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line and adjusted it right down, and the rears still lock first, only just, but still before the front. ARGHHHH!!!!!!!!! . I just can't seem to have a win. I have now ordered a new brake master cylinder, again, this time it looks identical to the one Mikey85 has used in his setup, and is advertised as a b110 and 1200 master cylinder. It is coming from the states so I won't see it for a while. I took on what Neil said about the caliper size, and bought a pair of front calipers from a Toyota corona st141. They bolt straight onto the mounting braket from the R31 calipers, which I tried because the bracket for the Corona dosn't fit behind the rotor, but found that the caliper dosn't slide far enough over to clear the brake pad on the outside of the disk. I need it to come about 7mm further over and it would have been sweet, but I can't find any way to get that extra 7mm without weakening the bracket or the caliper. Bit of a shame really, I think the piston is a 2" piston. Not sure but the Corona uses a bolt on disk/hub setup, and that may be where the problem lies. Maby a 120Y hub would fix it, but without one here to try it I just don't know.
 
Oh well, just wait for the new master to get here, and drive carefully till then.
 
 
 
This is the new master I have ordered.
 
 
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/310336401917?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I hope that master works because it is identical to the one I have
how about welding the 2 calipers together?
eg.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
I think I may not have done a good job explaining my self. I mean the part of the caliper that bolts to the backing plates, that has the slides in it, the part that the disk goes through thats bolted to the car. Thats the part that needs to change, or the caliper it's self. Or alternativley, the disk may need to be changed to a bolt on type to use the Corona calipers
I have now installed the new master. YEHHHHHA!!!!! I have found that the pedal is much easier to use, and the car is stopping well. I adjusted the proportioning valve all the way out so the rears get normal braking, but found that the rears still lock a long way before the front. The funny thing is that the front just don't lock any way. Maby there is an issue with the rotors, they may need replacing. Any way I adjusted the proportioning valve back up and now have finally got the rears to stop locking. I have also found that with the proportioning valve giving full breaking preasure to the back, the pedal was much softer and more progressive, but has hardened back up as I adjusted it to stop the rear locking. The only thing that I now have different to the other guys is that I am now running the 17mm rear cylinders and you guys said that you havn't changed them, so would still be the 21mm ones. Maby I'll try putting them back on, but just don't know that would be better. 
 
Over all a huge improvement on the drums and finally very happy with system as a whole.
 
Any other ideas Neil ?
Hey mate, did you say that you removed the auto adjusters out of the calipers? Is it hard to do? I left mine in but it locked up on me before. Cheers
Yeah I did, it's really easy. Take the pistons out, inside the middle of it is a circlip, pop the circlip out and the stuff all comes out of the piston. Leave all the rest of it on the back of the caliper because it has the seal in it, but there will be no ratchet mechanism any more.
 
Just pull the pistin out and look in the middle of it, thats what come out.
D, what calipers are you running on the front that required that mod to the R31 brackets?
Cheers mate, Yeah I fixed them on Friday night. I dont know why I didnt remove them when I fitted the brakes. But anyway, all good. Cheers
Sorry not my pic, I think the guy ran some front commonho vented calipers. 
Just used the r31 as a base intead.
 
Congrats on the brakes!!!!  so the MC was the 1200 coupe one in the end?
They seem to work the best.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Yeah that is the one I used in the end. I still have to run the proportioning valve to keep ther rears from locking, which hardens up the pedal quite a bit, but very good brakes now.
Can we help our Canadian Brother with a similar brake setup for his 1000?
Is there a GM caliper like on the rear of the VS commodore available over there?
Rear Caliper brackets off an R31 or similar BW rear end? Also rear R31 disc rotor?
 
or is he best with a Chrysler (mitsubishi) GE caliper, caliper brackets, disc rotors,
datsun 1200 coupe hubs and  custom front lines?
 
Neil any idea on North American models?
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Not a single one of those vehicles or components would be available to him
He's going to need to start from scratch and build something up himself
Or get the items sent with the panels and parts he's already getting
 
I wouldn't use the rear calipers off the 31 or commy though... they aren't good enough
They need bigger pistons
Like maybe Camira (early had solid discs) or something else
I think I have an idea on what to do still need to look over your build have not had a chance to sit down and read it yet. 
I have a set of celica calipers but hey don't seem like hey would be the best. Subwoofers in Richmond has toyota Corinna brakes on his but he did not do the work. I should call a fellow in bc who may know why I can use.
69 datsun 1000 deluxe. 73-78 Mazda b1800
65 datsun 1600 roadster. 
88 300zx turbo 2+2. 94 pathfinder
you'd be able to throw a set of wilwood calipers on wouldn't you? are they street legal over there?
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
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68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
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