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engineering

Good news (maybe)
to stay sweet with the law and your insurer, almost all mods need engineering approval,
If you have a bingle with modded brakes or a bigger motor without engineering, your insurance company is likely to walk away from you.
with this in mind, I randomly contacted an engineer in Perth. Below  is a copy of the corespondance.
Sounds pretty reasonable to me when you consider the cost of getting a plumber or sparky out for a small job
 
I am keen to know if anyone has gone down the engineering road for disc brake conversions and or fitting an A15
 
 
From: mal@letsgo.com.au
To: dons_1934@hotmail.com
Subject: Vehicle modification
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:53:18 +0800





Hello
I own an old 1969 Datsun 1000 and plan to lightly modify (improve)  and will need an engineer to certify the modifications as safe and acceptable to the Transport department.
I am local to Fremantle and obtained your email address from the Transport Dept website
Plans are

  1. replace A10  1000cc motor with A15 1500cc power change 66HP to 80HP
  2. replace 4 speed gearbox with 5 speed from a later datsun
  3. replace front drum brakes with disc brakes and change the brake master cylinder accordingly


Is this your line of work?
Can you give an estimate of the cost of your service?
 
Many thanks
Mal



 
 Hi Mal,
Sorry I have been late in replying to your query regarding certification of the modifications to your Datsun. I do inspections and prepare the report and documentation necessary
for the DPI Technical Section to issue approval to license the vehicle. My fee is generally in the order of $350 plus GST depending on the complexity of the modifications.
If you are still in need of someone, you could give me a call and  we could discuss your Project

Best regards,

Don Stevens
That sounds more than reasonable Mal.
 
I guess it will depend on how anal he is about modifications. If he is reasonable about his requests to get it all approved, then pricing wise, thats pretty reasonable. If he is going to nail you on thingslike bolt tensile strengths, then maybe not.
 
I think I may need to speak with him at some point for my work.
 
Dont lose his contact details.
 
 
 
Nowdays rego are asking for silly things
Such as collapsable steering columns
So get some real details before you throw money at any engineer
Ask rego whats required by filling in your modification form from tech dept
 
And my 1000 wagon has gone thru pits with A15 and discs
But I don't think he noticed they weren't stock
 
I knew I should have re-incarnated into a body that grew up in the East of Oz 
Good prices and not too unreasonable modifications wise.
Ive paid more to change coil packs in a suzuki.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
I suspect I could do as Neil did and put  an A15 and discs over the pits and get it passed BUT I am not certain I would have valid insurance without specific engineering approval.
I have a mate who upgraded his brakes on a Ford Zephyr and when he had an accident his insurer would not pay as the mod was not approved. Cost him 28K-- ouch!!
 
Still keen to know if anyone has gone down the engineering road for disc brake conversions and or fitting an A15
 
 

Quote:

"

National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Construction and Modification (NCOP):

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx
 
 
 
I read the section on clearance of brake components...

Obviously you need clearance between the caliper and rim!

However, it sounds like I may need a gap of 10mm between the caliper and the inside of the rim.
Have I understood this correctly? What clearance have other peoples disc conversions have?

2.7 INSTALLATION
2.7.1 Clearance
All brake components must clear other vehicle components such as wheels, suspension
members and chassis members over the full range of steering and suspension travel. It is
recommended that a clearance of at least 10mm be provided at all such locations
 
 
 
 
"

when i was talking to the engineer about brakes he said adopt a disk brake setup from a similar weighing car, said it looks better on paper?? he wouldn't approve an r31 conversion because the r31 weights to much?? im just going the 1200 disk brake setup out a 1200. i would like to know what is the go with this cos the idiot i was talking to wouldn't explain it to me properly
 
so im guessing no third party either? cos that is what i'd be worried about
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
for the 1200 I would think that you wouldnt need anything since they came with discs on the front as a feature. You should still go over the pits again, but engineering approval shouldnt be needed for features that came from the factory.
 
 
For the 1000 its  different discs where never available, and neigher was the a15. Engineering approval is the safest way, as you have surmised mal to ensure that insurance is OK, but that is still no guarentee that insurance will pay out, but its your best bet.
 
In saying that insurance companies are funny buggers. A lot of companies wont insure my ute cause of the extended cab. If it was a wagon cut down No problems, but since its a ute cab extended, they are not intrested. go figure??
i dont bother with comprehensive insurance i've just got third party incase i hit something and i'd be shit off if they didn't pay because of the disc brakes
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
I've not engineered my brakes
Cause I haven't got the rest of the car finished (modified) and they won't engineer just one component
Its a car deal ... whole package
My engine # on my rego papers... so no issue there
I know my brakes are safe
 
Infact.... theres been 2 ways to get brakes certified in WA in the past
1. Engineer approval
2. A letter from a recognised brake specialist
 
And since I was the only recognised specialist according to rego dept during Reno Marchesi's time as the head of tech section
And I was the only one writing the letters of approval... I think I know they are OK
But since Reno left... I've not written a letter for anyone since
scribe me a letter Nool, I'll try it on...
You have to finish that wagoon first maate !
A bit off topic, but what about cars manufactured before 1/1969? Just checked my papers and my ute was complianced in 1/1968 and I was planning my engine conversion to run an OEM ECU. By the looks of it, its going to be too hard and I'm going to have to run an aftermarket ECU. Due to the fact that my vehicle is not "governed" under the Second or Third edition ADR's, the vehicle must still comply with the Vehicle Standards Rules.
 
There is not a great deal in relation to Aftermarket ECU's in the AVSR's, so maybe I can get it engineered with little dramas? Does anyone know if this can still be raised as an issue?
are you just converting an a series to efi? or have you done an engine conversion?
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Full engine conversion, it’s a Swift GTi engine with Vitara head (G13B/G16B hybrid D and I have been talking about on the Datsun1200.com site). There are too many sensors that are not compatible as they used different ignition/timing sensors. If I can get away with an aftermarket ECU, I can work around that. I'll still run as many "emissions" fittings as possible, such as cat. converter and charcoal canister to appease the Authorities, but I can do away with things such as the air flow meter.
well i know gav had to get his engineered with the standard ecu, you'd have to chat with your engineer i think
Current Dato -
68 B20 ute project
Previous Datos -
68 B20 ute
68 B10 2dr sedan
ca18det 1200 ute 180rwkw
12a montser port 1200 ute 212rwhp
Stocko 1200 wagon
Didnt know they had flow air meter Booyar is that all models? check with gtaye he does the g13bb engines
http://redlinegti.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34209
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Hmm, further reading of all this suggests to me that being Pre-ADR doesn't stop the vehicle from requiring engineering, however does mean that the vehicle will be engineered against the Vehicle Standards.
 
I'll ask Gav the age of his car. If it was built after 1/1969, he is susceptible to engineering under the Second Edition ADR's which could explain the necessity of the OEM ecu to comply with emissions. My understanding is that under the Vehicle standards, all emissions gear for that year of vehicle must be kept in any conversion. Its applicable to the VEHICLE year not the ENGINE year.I'll keep you posted on my findings. (Might start a new thread for that)
You will find that it is the engines emissions that must meet the older vehicke. Eg. You have a 1927 Chev tourer and you decide to fit an LS1. You need to fit everything relevent to the LS1, not whatever the 1927 Chev had, which is nothing. It has always been the same for nearly all states. And they are trying to bring it all together so that all states are on the same page. Before starting any conversion you should contact an engineer listed by your rego department. Saves alot of money in the long run. Unless club rego is involved. Then it is up to your club if you are going to require an engineers certificate. Another classic example is with an old pre 75 Holden HQ ute I had years ago. I fitted a VN injected 5.0 into it and took it in for rego. I was told to connect a charcoal cannister and fit a cat convertor to the exhaust as the engine number prefix was for the VN. So I went home, and pulled the donk and fitted all the gear onto a spare early 308 I had and problem solved. I could inject the early motor and leave all the other crap off. Go figure. My 308 was running a mild cam too so the emissions were ironically worse than the standard VN's 304. Beaurocricy at it's best.
Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want...
Yep, I agree its crap. I was under the impression that due to the vehicle being pre-ADRs, that the emissions would not be an issue as it was never "restricted" back then.
 
Yep, emails-a-plenty being sent to RTA!
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