Over the week/weekend i have fitted 120y seats into my sedan.
 

 
I made up an adapter to even out the mismatch in height on the 120y seat mounts.
 
Then added 20mm box between the seats and rails to allow full movement without hitting the box section hump over 1000 tunnels.
 
Rails on the tunnel side were relocated approx 20mm towards the seat centre to allow the rail to clear the same box hump on the tunnel.
 

 
Now i have headrests. 

I had some steel plates water cut to do my brake swap. (Vk non finned calipers, U12 Pintara rotors and custom brackets to suit).
 
I decided to water cut in 10mm and 5mm to keep my costs down.

 

Tapping threads.
 

I needed to remove some steel from the webbing on the caliper to get it all sitting right.
 
I wanted the caliper to make full contact with the rotors while sitting square.
 

I had a friend weld my bracket to my centering ring in 3 places.
 
This is as far as I have come with the brake swap so far... but thought an update was in order.

Track stays as is.
 
The 10mm plate takes up free space where the drum brakes were doing their thing.
 
All the suspension bits bolt as they were and hubs stay the same.
 
I would need to check disc thickness vs drum thickness to see if there is anything there, as both sit over wheel studs.
 
But my current line of thought is track should stay the same.

I have now painted the block, honed bores, replaced rings, conrod bearings, head studs, spark plugs and oil filter. Plus gaskets etc.
Checked timing chain stretch, valve gaps, and rough set distributor timing.
 
  
 
I have temporarily replaced the head with an early A12 head which i had refurbished approx 3 months of driving before removal of engine.
 
The late round port head which came on the engine was in my opinion,  unusable. 
 
Rusty rockers and springs, snapped aluminium where a water fitting enters the rear of the head

As promised in another topic, here is the run down on my mounts so far.
 
6mm plate drilled & tapped to suit a 10mm thread.
Plate countersunk and thread tapered.
 
Welded up and then cut out to make a bolt with a large rectangular head.

 
Then welded to 38.1mm tube with a 1.6mm wall (34.9mm inner diameter)
 
Tube length is 40mm. 
 

The 120y bushings are listed on the nolathane web page as 35mm outer diameter and 12mm inner diameter.
 
However, i decided to use the superoo bushings to keep the mounts dark in colour.
 
The bushings i used have a 1/2 inch inner diammeter, so i ended up using high pressure hydraulic tubing as my crush tube.
 
12.7mm OD, 10.2mm ID.
 
I will be using 10mm high tensile bolts with a shanked section running the full width of my mounts inside my crush tube.
 

As a side project I have also made an alternator tensioner bracket.
 
I am using an early head on a late engine, but want to run the alternator in the late position.
 
So a custom bracket was needed to join the two.
 
It is just 6mm steel cut to shape and welded to part of a spare bracket I had.
 

Yesterday i cut down the engine towers on my spare crossmember, cut up plate to close it up again at the new heights and my friend welded it all together for me.
 
Drivers side, before/after.
 
 
Passenger side, before/after.
I left the mount foward relative to the crossmember to keep the engine mount away from the hot exhaust.
 
 
Bolted under my A14

 
When deciding on engine placement i wanted my A14 crank position to be as close to the current Early A12 crank position as i could achieve while still being reasonable about the work needed to do so.
I made up a jig to simulate my crossmember under my A14 and found that the motor was going to sit up and/or forwards of the A12 position because of the larger sump.

 
This made me decide on the stiffer bushing mounts as i decided stiff mounts with a smaller clearance would keep my motor height closer to where i wanted it...
 
Well after massaging the sump with a hammer in the corner closest to the top front edge of.my crossmember.
 

 
I am happy with this clearance vs engine height.
 
I ended up with a crank height 8mm higher than my current Early A12.

Propper Mods, Good work

Thanks for the lovin on my mods so far.
 
I attempted to do new bushings on my LCA's last night with 10mm threaded rod from Bunnings and some sockets.
 
Got the new bushings in most of the way before the threads on the rod said no.
Time to get a shop press involved i guess.