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Beetwenty's B10 2 door

Ash on his legendary projects again, 
I like that you can use a temp control on the leccy pumps...
Yeah, a friend has one in his 1200.
They are the go.
Strangely I am not after it for the temp control.
Im chasing millimeters.
Wanting to try and see if i can squeeze a thermo fan between radiator and engine.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I ran a fan between rad and engine with std pump
A15 and thick rad... close though
I bought a wp blank plate off a guy on 1200.com
Heavy stainless... should last forever
I am jealous of you Neil.
I think my A12 must be further foward than your A15 or the supercheap auto fan that I tried was thicker than your Fan.
I wanted to use a single 10 inch and didnt have the space.
(But it was a super cheap auto fan, so probably not the thinnest fan ever made)
I also wanted to buy a water cut plate from ebay or somewhere similar, but came up empty handed.
So had no option other than to sort out my own plate.
A stainless one will definatley last for ever.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Post man delivered a new apron panel today.
Was listed as an unknown part.
Sent it off for blasting and etch priming already.
...chasing this panel came about as im looking to make a removable apron panel to gain access to the front side of my radiator panel.
My car must have had a front end crash at some point in its life as both guards are welded to the apron panel on my car and it looks as if it has been mig welded to the radiator support where there should be spot welds instead.
Im not sure how easily my current panel will come off.
If it comes off easy ill have a spare, yay for me.
But im thinking the reality is its going to fall into the not so easy category... so spare panel it is.
Please dont hate me if my current one doesn't survive.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I cut the nose off a 2 dr sedan yrs ago for someone... who never came thru.... still wrapped up in the shed I think
Good spare to have.
I just paid $150 plus $25 post for mine.
Not sure what blasting/primer will owe.
But could likley be a $300 panel that still needs painting.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have received my blasted and primed panel.

I have also been making some adapter plates for an AC pump and my Davies Craig EWP80 Water pump.
AC Bracket and Adapter Plate.
Electric Water pump Bracket.
Both mounted to my A14.
Slow going, but I am making progress.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Got my adapter for my water pump in the post this week.
I have cut it short to get my radiator hose sitting where i want it.
Because i shortened it, i have used countersunk bolts to keep as much hoseclamp space as i can.

Instead of using nuts on the rear side... I made up some threaded plates because nuts made the adapter look like... well an adapter.
I also bought a new hose after finally working out which one to buy.  (They all look the same to me in their cartoon drawings in the catalogue)
Ended up with a 120y hose CH1048.
Below is 120y, 1200, 1000 hoses.
Tricky little buggers.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I decided that i wanted to have my water temp sensor for my davies craig water pump and controller in my thermostat housing instead of having an adapter in my top radiator hose.
Mulotix (Richard) was kind enough to weld it up for me.
Free of charge.
We just posted the part to/from each other.
Thanks again mate. You are a ledgend.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
After receiving my welded part I hand filed it to shape and smoothed it with some sand paper, then textured the outside with a bolt in a drill.

I ended up using 2 bolts, one filed down to make sharp corners and then followed by a normal bolt to soften the texture.

Im super happy with how this texture came out.
I certainty prefer it over the texture made by a needle scaler on my other parts.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
the attention to detail is second to none... awesome work... again...
and just for Ideas... 
Power Grip...  
I've got the time to put in the attention to detail because Im still slowly saving up the required bits and pieces to do my A14 swap how i want it done... and im not rich enough to just buy all the bits in one hit.
Plus I absolutley love the process of trying to figure out how I can do the best job I can on anything I fiddle about with.
For me I find having the goal of making a part that will be ignored by anyone that dosnt know what it should have been in its unmodified state helps to keep me on track.
In a couple of weeks ill get a thermo fan.
Looking at a Spal brand one as it is only 51mm at its thickest point.
Will be quite spendy for a fan @ approx $166 for the cheapest 11 inch,12v, puller type one I can find on ebay.
Next week its a road trip to Sydney with a mate, so no buying Datsun parts till we are back.
On another note...
I never thought Id be so interested in a hose clamp catalogue.
As well as the shrink clamps they also do some very clever clamping solutions.
Thanks for the link Dundee.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Thats pretty thin wow!
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Yeah thinnest i could find.
On another note...
While this isnt so much a part of my car build, I thought the info was relevant to any of you thinking of trying my bolt texture idea.
I Made up a holder for some screwdrivers at home and thought id texture the Philips side and brush the flat blade side.

I noticed when texturing the flat faces of the aluminum angle that my texture had longer marks than when I did my thermostat housing.
After some thinking... here is my theory on why.
The thermostat housing is a convex shape so there is very little contact area between bolt corners and thermostst housing... so small marks no matter what bolt size is used.
My aluminium angle on my screw driver holder has flat surfaces creating a greater contact area... so longer marks.
i would guess a smaller bolt diameter would resolve this issue and make a great pattern again.
And in theory id assume a concave shape would require a ridiculously small bolt for my texturing method.
Just thought id put this up here for any of you guys thinking of using this technique on your own bits and pieces, hopefully this bit of info can help you to achieve better results on flat and concave shapes.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
looks like shot peening alloy 
love the before and after thermostat thingy
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Just a tiny update on the car.
3D-printed metal centre-cap emblems for my super-shark wheels.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Time for another update.
I have changed my front seat backrests from 120y sedan to 120y coupe.
The pattern in the vinyl is the same.
However the coupe backrests are approx 1 inch lower than the sedan ones, which I feel makes the seats look far more natural to the car.
They are also alot thinner and also have a slight concave to them which actually gives a bit of a bucket seat feel to them when sitting in the car.
So Im super happy I bothered to do the upgrade.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have also attached a MK1 VW Golf front lip to my car.
I ended up shortening the distance that it protrudes foward on the car by almost half of its original size in an attempt to make its size proportional to the car.
I also mounted it underneath the front valance panel rather than directly onto it.
Again Im happy with this mod.
It cover over those ugly castor rod nuts on the front.
To me they really caught my eye when viewing my car from the front.
Photo isnt mine, (found it on a facebook gallery for a local car meet)
But for now its the only pic I have with the lip mounted on the car.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
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