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Beetwenty's B10 2 door

I guess it will be a case of wire brush later as it is all packed up now.
Had a quick play in the shed this afternoon.
I used a bicycle v brake noodle (flexible type) to allow a 180deg turn of my choke cable. (Also  bicycle cable).
I used the mounting part from an old carb and made up a bracket from 2mm steel.
I also needed to file the aluminium end of the brake cable noodle down from 6mm OD to 5mm OD to fit into the webers choke cable location.

This should allow a more direct cable routing path.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I Decided to replace my radio with a blankimg plate as my retrosound has stopped working. 

I liked how my 120y console had three sets of stripes.
To me this matches well with the S-Mark emblem also having a border that is divided into three.
So to me the new design only had only one option.
Attachment is just with a wing nut and a simple aluminium strip from behind.

I also had a few paint chips on my handbrake lever from my old seatbelts, so am trying a sticker with a plasiltic texture. (See how it holds up over time i guess)

I have also sorted out a heater hose return point immediatley before my water  pump.

I just used a hose barb and some knead it.
So again, i guess ill see how that works out for me.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
As part of my goal to add AC into my 1000 I have decided to custom build a heater/AC box in the general styling of the original hearer box.
Original VS new.

I bought an aftermarket fan and the smallest heater and evap cores that I could find which worked out to be...
D22 Navara Heater Core. 
NM Pajero Rear evap Core.
Spal Fan.

The box is very basic with only fresh air in and cabin or windscreen venting options.
Venting to cabin is controlled by either opening or closing the main door on the front and venting to windscreen is controlled by operation of a diverter flap behind the main venting door.
Venting is transferred from the box to demister vents via radiator hose.
And airflow is split internally to two outlets on the heater box.
This project turned out to be quite complicated requiring alot of parts.

but I still made sure that I took the time to add in some special details to keep it looking natural when in place.
I still need to wire up my fan and connect heater tap controls, hoses & AC lines.
But am happy with it all so far.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
When I took my heater box components to the sand blasters and powder coaters I also added a GX air box to the job.
I had purchased the airbox recently and decided to paint it... Interpon/Dulux, Flame Red.
To keep things easily serviceable i have decided that instead of chasing an unavailable disposable air filter I should use a K&N washable air filter.
(Part number, E-3672)
Fits remarkably well.
(I also added a B-Projects reproduction Service Decal)
The airbox and filter will live in the cupboard until Im ready for SU's
But it is a good feeling to have it sorted and ready for use.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Ash!!! I'm sure you have written my address down incorrectly again... 
none of these awesome B10 custom gear has showed up yet??? 

tracking numbers? 
did you get the K&N at a good price? I'm chasing one as well..
Time will tell if it is awesome or failure.
Im not going to bother connecting anything up on the heaterbox until i do my A14.
As for the filter...I just ebayed one.
It was $134 with free postage,
I didnt bother looking about for a better deal outside of ebay so not sure whats cheap/expensive for these.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have been ignoring the car and putting my time and money into mountain bikes for the past few months, but recently got a good price on a GX exhaust manifold so put in some garage time again to make a start on the missing 2nd half of my manifold.
I had a flange water cut in 304 stainless steel and a gasket cut in copper and pieced together the rest from generic  ebay pipes and bends.
I had a friend weld it together for me, So to make the favour a little easier for him I made up a jig for tack welding it all together.

The weird fat part on the end is my attempt at an antireversion chamber.
which is just a pipe inside a pipe with a taper at both ends.

The idea being...Exhaust gasses travel away from the engine freely but shockwaves bouncing towards the engine become reduced where the two pipes sit inside each other causing more efficent gas flow.
I heard about this on the internet so it must work right?, giving it a try.
The length of the chamber does set my exhaust height approx 25mm lower than whats currentlly  in the car so when its time to install and work out the rest of the exhaust system it might get removed if height/sizing dosn't allow.
I wont really know exact ground clearances until its all in, so time will tell.
I have also added a V-Band near the engine/gearbox junction to make gearbox removal/fitment easier if I feel I need the exhaust out of the way when doing box swaps/clutches etc in the future.
Hope it works, I sure do like the look of it so far.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
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