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Beetwenty's B10 2 door

I guess it will be a case of wire brush later as it is all packed up now.
 
Had a quick play in the shed this afternoon.
I used a bicycle v brake noodle (flexible type) to allow a 180deg turn of my choke cable. (Also  bicycle cable).
 
I used the mounting part from an old carb and made up a bracket from 2mm steel.
 
I also needed to file the aluminium end of the brake cable noodle down from 6mm OD to 5mm OD to fit into the webers choke cable location.

 
This should allow a more direct cable routing path.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I Decided to replace my radio with a blankimg plate as my retrosound has stopped working. 
 

 
I liked how my 120y console had three sets of stripes.
To me this matches well with the S-Mark emblem also having a border that is divided into three.
So to me the new design only had only one option.
 
 
 
Attachment is just with a wing nut and a simple aluminium strip from behind.

 
I also had a few paint chips on my handbrake lever from my old seatbelts, so am trying a sticker with a plasiltic texture. (See how it holds up over time i guess)

 
I have also sorted out a heater hose return point immediatley before my water  pump.

 
I just used a hose barb and some knead it.
So again, i guess ill see how that works out for me.
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
As part of my goal to add AC into my 1000 I have decided to custom build a heater/AC box in the general styling of the original hearer box.
 
Original VS new.

 
I bought an aftermarket fan and the smallest heater and evap cores that I could find which worked out to be...
 
D22 Navara Heater Core. 
NM Pajero Rear evap Core.
Spal Fan.

 
The box is very basic with only fresh air in and cabin or windscreen venting options.
 
   
 
Venting to cabin is controlled by either opening or closing the main door on the front and venting to windscreen is controlled by operation of a diverter flap behind the main venting door.
 
 
Venting is transferred from the box to demister vents via radiator hose.
And airflow is split internally to two outlets on the heater box.
  
 
This project turned out to be quite complicated requiring alot of parts.

 
but I still made sure that I took the time to add in some special details to keep it looking natural when in place.
 
 
I still need to wire up my fan and connect heater tap controls, hoses & AC lines.
 
But am happy with it all so far.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
When I took my heater box components to the sand blasters and powder coaters I also added a GX air box to the job.
 
I had purchased the airbox recently and decided to paint it... Interpon/Dulux, Flame Red.
 
To keep things easily serviceable i have decided that instead of chasing an unavailable disposable air filter I should use a K&N washable air filter.
(Part number, E-3672)
Fits remarkably well.
 
(I also added a B-Projects reproduction Service Decal)
 
 
 
The airbox and filter will live in the cupboard until Im ready for SU's
But it is a good feeling to have it sorted and ready for use.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Ash!!! I'm sure you have written my address down incorrectly again... 
none of these awesome B10 custom gear has showed up yet??? 

tracking numbers? 
 
did you get the K&N at a good price? I'm chasing one as well..
Time will tell if it is awesome or failure.
Im not going to bother connecting anything up on the heaterbox until i do my A14.
 
As for the filter...I just ebayed one.
It was $134 with free postage,
I didnt bother looking about for a better deal outside of ebay so not sure whats cheap/expensive for these.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have been ignoring the car and putting my time and money into mountain bikes for the past few months, but recently got a good price on a GX exhaust manifold so put in some garage time again to make a start on the missing 2nd half of my manifold.
 
I had a flange water cut in 304 stainless steel and a gasket cut in copper and pieced together the rest from generic  ebay pipes and bends.
 
 
 
I had a friend weld it together for me, So to make the favour a little easier for him I made up a jig for tack welding it all together.

 
The weird fat part on the end is my attempt at an antireversion chamber.
which is just a pipe inside a pipe with a taper at both ends.

The idea being...Exhaust gasses travel away from the engine freely but shockwaves bouncing towards the engine become reduced where the two pipes sit inside each other causing more efficent gas flow.
I heard about this on the internet so it must work right?, giving it a try.
 
 
The length of the chamber does set my exhaust height approx 25mm lower than whats currentlly  in the car so when its time to install and work out the rest of the exhaust system it might get removed if height/sizing dosn't allow.
 
I wont really know exact ground clearances until its all in, so time will tell.
 
I have also added a V-Band near the engine/gearbox junction to make gearbox removal/fitment easier if I feel I need the exhaust out of the way when doing box swaps/clutches etc in the future.
 
Hope it works, I sure do like the look of it so far.
 
Ash.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Quick update.
 
Ive gone and bought myself a red Hayashi-Racing A-Series Cover.
 

 
This does mean im back to saving up for completing my build.
 
But to me, it will be worth the extra wait while i save again.
 
For those of you who dont know, there are not many of these covers about, so I decided to buy one while i could as i wanted one more than i can explain.
 
Thought id share my excitement.
 
Ash.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
red bits are going to look insane with that cream body
you give more love to your car than Ive done to anything
or anyone in my life 
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Thanks D.
 
I did sit the cover and GX air filter in my bay earlier today to get an idea of how it will look when all is said and done.
 
I definitely like the way it is coming together.
The red parts defiantly give my engine bay a look of "Loves A-Series"
.
 
(Excuse my white rag which is protecting the A10 cover)
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
The anal make up in me no longer loves any datsun blue in your engine bay 
 
Red, black and alloy bits with that cream is all my anus wants to see so....
.....will make sure I keep my pants on at all times from now on when
perving at your work 
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
I think i agree with you about the blue D.
So a red or black engine block before it goes in then?
 
If I went Red I would try my best to keep the intensity of the red down on the engine block and try for a factory-ish looking shade of red.
 
Maybe just a simple holden red.
Would make any touch ups easy to colour match in the future.
 
Edit: kid of digging the idea of the holden grey motor colour for the block as a third option as well.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
ummmmm, My A14 in the Red wags is in fact holden Grey motor grey... 
 
that rocker cover looks awesome...
Thanks Dundee.
 
Any chance of a picture of your motor in grey?
 
I like having a black engine bay as I can bang spanners into things and just use a can of black spray paint to repair any clumsy mistakes.
Also untidy wiring harnesses hide well on a black background.

I am concerned that a black engine block in a black engine bay with black hoses, wires etc would be too much.
 
I am also concerned that on the other end of the spectrum a red cover & airbox would be too much on a red block.
 
Thinking grey could be a sensible middle ground.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
My oil catchcan arrived in the post today.
 
I decided on a 750ml proflow can.
 
When redoing hoses, i decided to use a different air filter as I had a K@N filter sitting around doing nothing.
 
While the filter housing was off I noticed my venturis were a little loose.
 
After tightening them back up my car has so much more low end torque than it did before.
 
I am happy as with how it is coming together now.
 
. 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Been a while since I've done an update..
 
While I havnt bothered to fit these to my car yet...
I've made up some custom rear spring plates to fit a set of MK1 Escort leaf Pads.
(SuperPro SPF1979K)
These pads fit well to the standard 1000 stuff with the exception of the outer diameter on the locating pin area being slightly undersized.
 
But I decided to make up my own spring plates with a bolt on top-locating-plate for fine adjustment of my ride height.
  
 
If i want to lower my car another 5mm, I just need  to cut/drill and pack with 5mm thick plate between the two halves.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have also made a start on a rear brake swap for my 1000.
Ive roughly based my swap on this car as it looks to be a well thought out swap.
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=470830#forumpost470830
 
I already have a front swap mostly sorted out. (need to rebuild calipers and do brake lines)
But is essentially the maddat swap or similar to the car in the link above.
 
I have decided to use S14 calipers instead of R31 for my rear brake swap as I prefer how the S14 handbrake cables mount.
Piston Diameters are the same and brake pads are close enough in size for me to consider this the same from a brake bias/proportioning point of view.
 
Ive paired them up with some CB CC Honda Accord rotors RDA471
As these had a hat height I could work with, were 4x114.3 and had a similar dia and thickness to the s14 stuff.
 

 
I mounted from off the back with 12mm steel plate to set my caliper offset, and used 10mm steel as my caliper mounting bracket.
These did take quite a bit of custom fitting to match up to the diff shape, so If I had my time again I think id use R31 from an effort/result point of view.
 
But done now, so im happy.
 
 
(yes I did the worlds thickest paint job and bolted it up wet, call me impatient)
 
I have done this on a spare 1000 diff which I have also fitted a 3.9:1 H150 Centre into, using a 2mm steel spacer plate that I had made up previously.
And have also had the diff shop put new bearings on the axels.

 
So all in all very little has been done to my car latley.
I have been obsessivley focusing on buying new tools and organising my garage in an effort to make working on the car as fun as i can make it.
 
Ash.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have now fitted my rear spring plates and am extremely happy with the result.
 
With the new escort rubbers fitted and cut down to suit the length of my spring plates, my car now rides smoother than it did before and my ride height is also set exactly how i want it.

 
I did end up squeezing a 3mm aluminium packer to the underside of my leaf springs as when I measured it all up I made my escort rubber pads fit the spring plates exactly.
After thinking about this further, I feel better about having a small amount of preload on these rubbers.
Hopefully this will allow some deformation to the rubner over time.

 
I have also added a second set of nylock nuts to my u bolts as an added level of safety.
(Keep the u bolt nuts from vibratng loose if something im not currently thinking of changes in my setup).
 
Ash.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
We need a like button
 
Good work
Thanks Neil.
 
I prefer that you have taken the time to post that, It feels considerably more genuine than a like.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
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