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Beetwenty's B10 2 door

I actually have an H165 diff siting in the garage. (Spare for the Daily driven 1200 Ute)
But the wheels on my 1000 fill the available outer width completely so couldn't go wider without swapping to some front wheel drive wheels to counter the offset difference.
Even with the extra width I think I would be in the same boat as I am now regarding clearance as i need quite a bit extra before the extra length of the callipers was clear of my perceived interference.
On larger bumps both wheels scrub the inner lips ever so slightly and as a result have self rolled the inner lips ever so slightly.
Id say I could afford a maximum of a further 10mm per side  before I felt uncomfortable with it.
I'm going to have a look at a friends R31 callipers and if  feel I can make it happen with them then i'll redo my brake swap.
Otherwise I think ill just leave it as drums.
I'm kind of keen to get my A14 swap resolved now as I have dragged it out long enough in an attempt to keep the car as a running usable car before I do all my mods at once and certify them all on the one mod plate.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Thank you for the advice regarding the 260z drums D.
While I realise I'm being naïve in this endeavour, I kind of have my heart set on a 4 wheel disc swap if at all possible.
As for adjustable shocks, I did have a quick look into that a while back and my memory is that I believe original Mr Bean style of mini should have shock absorbers which should fit a 1000 and if so that opens the doors to tons of options, but only lightly looked at it so would need to give it more thought etc before saying for sure that it is the go.
Also, long time no speak. Hope you are doing well.
Same to you Benny, I hope you are staying safe with all your Sydney lockdowns etc currently.

I got a set of R31 callipers off a mate today and the current verdict is as follows...

It is looking like I can make the R31 callipers work with an extremely shallow brake rotor.
I will need to take a wheel off the 1000 and measure up calliper to wheel clearance on my 49mm Hat Height rotors that I currently have and see if i can reduce clearance by a further 6mm to use the rotors im considering for my swap.
Next step is to set the rotors and callipers inside my 1000 wheels to see if I can push things to such a low Hat Height.
I believe the rotors I currently have would work (Only just) so I would like a few extra mm of room if its available.
Currently thinking I can make things work with a pair of these.
Brembo 08.9139.10
Which I believe crosses over as RDA481-3, but still cant find any PCD info for the RDA part so not 100% on it being the equivalent part as the Brembo rotor just yet.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
In no way naive, nothing beats 4 wheel discs if done right thats for sure.

R31 calipers should do well as my wags was very low and ran 13s with
the R31 discs. Did want to try something like the front discs which were
later 120y rotors which are quite thin yet smaller diameter than the thicker
larger Sigma front solid units I used.

I used navara 1984-87 front inserts in the rear work very well as navara is
very heavy diesel engined truck and cheap.

I know you are have done the front but just in case anyone else is interested,
these billet front hubs could be ordered to suit smaller 1000/1200 bearings
and prob 700 to 800gsm savings each side.

No locksteps here for the proud Olympic host that has a period spot on its flag.
Only slave volunteers here no enforcement to live in fear of silly sniffles.
In Oz, QLD seems to be the place to be vs other States of person/as.
Me folks & friends down in Communist Republic of Melburnt are not so lucky
yet here way better off than most other corporations posing as countries.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell 'Most Jews do not like to admit it, but our god is Lucifer -- so I wasn't lying -- and we are his chosen people. Lucifer is very much alive.'"  Harold Rosenthal http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Good to hear you are doing ok.
I Haven't actually considered any particular model of car to use as a donor vehicle for my swap.
My process for choosing an appropriate rotor was to do a size search through the brembo web page.

I just put in the sizes that are important to me and and then look/sort through the results until I find something 4x114.3 PCD.

I did a similar process when choosing a radiator for my swap except it's Width,Drop,Thickness,Outlet Size/Position.

I'm a big fan of database part selection.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
While my build diary is focused on brake swaps I thought I would post up how I have decided on the critical measurements for my calliper to disc height relationship.
Offset can be managed through brake disc hat height and adapter plate thickness so wont bother with that here.
To decide on bolt hole location for the calliper to pick up on I wound a pair of 10mm bolts into the calliper and placed a ruler against the bolts to act as a reference point to measure from.
I measured from the top of the brake pad to the edge of the ruler that is against the 10mm calliper bolts.
This gave me a measurement of 57mm, so removing half the bolt diameter (5mm) gives me me a real world measurement of 52mm.

Calliper bolts were 97mm apart measured from centre to centre.
(I measured the space between inside faces of the two bolts @ 87mm and added one bolt thickness.  so.. 87+10=97mm)
Because I will be using 260mm rotors and want the top of the brake pads to be approx. 1mm below the discs outer edge ill make my radius 1mm less for my calculations. giving me a 129mm radius from the centre of the diff to the outer edge of my brake pads..
Bolt holes will be 77mm out then 48.5mm across from the centreline of the diff.
129-52=77 (Height up = disc radius - bolt centre offset from outside of disc)
97/2=48.5 (Distance left/right from centreline = Caliper bolt centre distance divided by 2)
Another way to look at this is to think of it as a right angled triangle where the two sides with a 90deg join are known and use Pythagoras theorem to work out the bolt hole locations as a radius from the axel centre which would be the hypotenuse of the right angled triangle.

This gives me the locations for my bolt holes and because I intend to mount the bracket to the rear of my diff ill need to add an 81mm hole to my plate.

Every other measurement (Rotation and plate outer dimensions/shape) can be done as I go and diff mounting holes can be done with transfer punches.
Hopefully this makes some kind of sense to anybody interested in my thought process for this.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Today I made a start on my new calliper mounting brackets.
For the plate that attaches to the diff I decided to repurpose the brackets that I made for the S14 callipers.
I simply cut off the corners to allow room for the calliper mounting bolts on my R31 callipers.
before/After picture

I have also made a start on the plates that will mount to the outside face of these for the R31 calpier to pick up on.

I still need to cut the outside profile to shape/size and also drill the holes for the calliper mounting bolts to pick up on but will wait until I have my new rotors and brake pads before committing to hole locations.
The new plate that I have made is also cut/filed to fit the diff..

I still need to finish the second plate, but have taken a break from it today as it it requires an absurd amount of filing to make these fit.

I am yet to decide on just how much of the second plate I'll keep but thought it best to simply keep as much as possible until I make a final decision on it all.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I decided on a final shape for the secondary plate and finished making my brackets  for both callipers today.

After deciding on hole locations I used some washers as a giude for my outer shape and cut/sanded to size/shape.

With the addition of a single washer between my plate and calliper I am happy with my left/right alignment between the calliper and brake rotor.

I am also happy with the height of my brake pads. (I ended up using a transfer punch instead of going with hole locations as coordinates) as its all hand made and felt this was a safer approach. 

That makes two sides complete, so when our lock down eases up, i'll get to the brake shop for a rebuild of the r31 callipers.

1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Are you putting a plate between diff flange and axle flange plate
To take up the distance the drum backing plate used to occupy
To stop end float of the axle ?
That is an excellent line of thought Neil
The axel flange plate does have the outer bearing race retained so don't see there being any float.
The bearing outer diameter is larger than the recessed part of the plate.
hope that makes sense.
Happy for input as if I've overlooked something id love to resolve it before installation.
I do have the original drum backing plates here still, 
Do you think i should cut the outside down and add them back in?
I would need to do it as a 2 piece thing now as the new bearings are pressed on to the axels already so cant slide them over the axels without bearing removal.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Might not be an issue
Haven't done my rear conversion as yet
well you went and made me paraniod.
I cut up the drum backings and put them back in..
Also droped the R31 calipers to the brake shop on friday.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Brake update time.
I have received my rebuilt callipers from the brake shop, and had custom rubber brake lines made up.

The brake shop sent me home with the parts that i needed to make my lines so I could set lengths and orientation of fittings before they crimped it all together for me.

I also did similar with the hard line on my diff by bending and cutting my line to length before having the brake shop provide tube nuts and flare the hard line for me.

Ill try to find time during the week to pick up some more hard line to do the brake lines for the front brakes, master cylinder and the full length of my car after work one day this week.
I have removed my 1:3 brake distribution block and replaced it with two distribution blocks to keep each braking system separate as my next step is to fit a dual circuit master cylinder. (Front and Rear)

I am at a total loss as to what is an appropriate master cylinder bore size for my brake swap, so have bought a 7/8 master and will just fit it up and see how the brake pedal feels/behaves.
(Should be picking this up from the brake shop on Monday or Tuesday).
I am starting with 7/8 as it is the stock size of an R31 which is what my rear brakes are from.
This is 1/16th of an inch smaller than the stock VK Commodore bore size of 15/16 which is what my front brakes are from.
This does not take into consideration my pedal lever ratio, so could be way off, but thought it best to take my guess based on some form of an educated guess.
I can however see me ending up with a 13/16 master as i am willing to sacrifice some pedal travel for mechanical advantage as my current plan is to not run a booster.

I have also had 8mm eye ends professionally crimped to a generic handbrake cable set and drilled/slotted my bracket to allow cable installation/removal after having the opposite ends of my cables crimped.

The other end of my cable will have threaded rods crimped to allow adjustment of my cable length.
The threaded section will pass through a block of aluminium that i made today to allow the single front cable to pull on both rear cables.

I have also fitted my DIY version of the MadDat brake swap.

MadDat did sell me a pair of their Datsun 1000 brake conversion rubber lines.
It was nice and easy to have at least one part of my swap go together like a Lego kit.
Thank you MadDat.
Oh and i happened to have a driveshaft in my Datsun stash that fits my 120y centre and the length also worked out perfect, so driveshaft was sorted free and easily also.
So... hard lines, handbrake cables and probably a few master cylinder bore sizes are still in my future before resolving my brake swap.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
7/8 should work fine
Depending where you like your pedal to be and its feel
I've run 11/16 . 3/4 . 13/16 and  7/8 on various cars
I have a 3/4 and a 7/8 here at home now and the 7/8 is now fitted to the car.
So if it turns out the 7/8 feels like it has no travel ill give the 3/4 a go before buying another size.
When installing my 7/8 master cylinder I found that my brake pedal wouldn't return to the adjustable bump stop, so I made up a new push rod at a slightly longer length. (top rod is stock and lower rod is my home built one)

I also remade the pivot from a grade 12.9 bolt that was left over from my first rear brake swap.
The pin that was in my car was only retained by the pedal return spring, so if the spring was to ever fail or pop off then the pin would have nothing retaining it.
I just made the new pin to the same dimensions, except longer to add an R-Clip as a plan B in case the return spring ever fails.

I have also finished my handbrake cables.
I ended up replacing the bolts which hold the cables to the callipers with some grade 12.9 cap screws and tapered the outer diameter to to allow installation/removal of the cables without disassembling my callipers as my new cable ends are slightly wider than a stock R31 cable so wouldnt fit easiy without the additional room created by the taper.

The opposite end now has 6mm threads crimped to my cables and my outers also have threaded ends, so have tons of adjustment to allow for any cable stretch over the years.

1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Careful with those rods
The bigger cyls are designed to run on a booster
And if you put a non boosted rod up their bum the first piston can hold down
Not allowing it to bleed properly or return enough
So holds the brakes on
When I do my disc setups I used to use a Toyo clutch master cyl rod from memory... ground the ball off.. set the correct lenght... and poked it straight into the back of the cyl
Thanks for the heads up Neil.
So just a rod with a rounded end... and set my length to suit?
Would be easy for me to do as I made my rod as a 2 piece part with M8x1.25 thread to join the two parts.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
So basically that lovely rod you made
Make a longer pin to screw into your clevis
And delete the captive washer
You'll need to make your rod long enough to have about 20-40 thou clearance into the back of the cyl when assembled
Well I guess it is of to the bolt shop for me to buy something long and strong that I can modify.
on a side note, I picked up my brake lines from the brake shop and bent them up using my old line as a template for 95% of the new lines length, only differing at the engine bay end to join directly to the master cylinder..
I sticky taped the old and new lines together after each bend was complete and worked my way from one end of the line to the other, one bend at a time.

I found it easiest to simply bend my lines around some old brake pistons left over from my calliper rebuild as they had a perfect groove to keep things on a constant plane throughout the bend.
This method made positioning and orientating the bends a fairly intuitive and simple process.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
The brake swap is finally done.
I remade my pushrod from a high tensile bolt, and bled the system, checked for leaks, etc.

I have only done a few laps of my local steets, but am thoroughly impressed with the braking peformance/feel so far.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Much betterer
I like it
In the past when I used to make and sell my conversions using the KC laser calipers
I always had to scrounge up clutch masters to rob the rods out of
Only Toyota ones... so no biggie
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