Thank you for the advice regarding the 260z drums D.
While I realise I'm being naïve in this endeavour, I kind of have my heart set on a 4 wheel disc swap if at all possible.
 
As for adjustable shocks, I did have a quick look into that a while back and my memory is that I believe original Mr Bean style of mini should have shock absorbers which should fit a 1000 and if so that opens the doors to tons of options, but only lightly looked at it so would need to give it more thought etc before saying for sure that it is the go.
 
Also, long time no speak. Hope you are doing well.
 
Same to you Benny, I hope you are staying safe with all your Sydney lockdowns etc currently.


 
I got a set of R31 callipers off a mate today and the current verdict is as follows...

It is looking like I can make the R31 callipers work with an extremely shallow brake rotor.
 
I will need to take a wheel off the 1000 and measure up calliper to wheel clearance on my 49mm Hat Height rotors that I currently have and see if i can reduce clearance by a further 6mm to use the rotors im considering for my swap.
Next step is to set the rotors and callipers inside my 1000 wheels to see if I can push things to such a low Hat Height.
 
I believe the rotors I currently have would work (Only just) so I would like a few extra mm of room if its available.
 
Currently thinking I can make things work with a pair of these.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/164242333309
 
Brembo 08.9139.10
 
 
Which I believe crosses over as RDA481-3, but still cant find any PCD info for the RDA part so not 100% on it being the equivalent part as the Brembo rotor just yet.

Good to hear you are doing ok.
 
I Haven't actually considered any particular model of car to use as a donor vehicle for my swap.
My process for choosing an appropriate rotor was to do a size search through the brembo web page.

I just put in the sizes that are important to me and and then look/sort through the results until I find something 4x114.3 PCD.

I did a similar process when choosing a radiator for my swap except it's Width,Drop,Thickness,Outlet Size/Position.

I'm a big fan of database part selection.

Today I made a start on my new calliper mounting brackets.
 
 
For the plate that attaches to the diff I decided to repurpose the brackets that I made for the S14 callipers.
I simply cut off the corners to allow room for the calliper mounting bolts on my R31 callipers.
 
before/After picture

 
I have also made a start on the plates that will mount to the outside face of these for the R31 calpier to pick up on.

 
I still need to cut the outside profile to shape/size and also drill the holes for the calliper mounting bolts to pick up on but will wait until I have my new rotors and brake pads before committing to hole locations.
 
The new plate that I have made is also cut/filed to fit the diff..

 
I still need to finish the second plate, but have taken a break from it today as it it requires an absurd amount of filing to make these fit.
 

 
I am yet to decide on just how much of the second plate I'll keep but thought it best to simply keep as much as possible until I make a final decision on it all.

Are you putting a plate between diff flange and axle flange plate
To take up the distance the drum backing plate used to occupy
To stop end float of the axle ?

Might not be an issue
Haven't done my rear conversion as yet

Brake update time.
 
I have received my rebuilt callipers from the brake shop, and had custom rubber brake lines made up.

 
The brake shop sent me home with the parts that i needed to make my lines so I could set lengths and orientation of fittings before they crimped it all together for me.

 
I also did similar with the hard line on my diff by bending and cutting my line to length before having the brake shop provide tube nuts and flare the hard line for me.

 
Ill try to find time during the week to pick up some more hard line to do the brake lines for the front brakes, master cylinder and the full length of my car after work one day this week.
 
 
I have removed my 1:3 brake distribution block and replaced it with two distribution blocks to keep each braking system separate as my next step is to fit a dual circuit master cylinder. (Front and Rear)

 
I am at a total loss as to what is an appropriate master cylinder bore size for my brake swap, so have bought a 7/8 master and will just fit it up and see how the brake pedal feels/behaves.
(Should be picking this up from the brake shop on Monday or Tuesday).
 
I am starting with 7/8 as it is the stock size of an R31 which is what my rear brakes are from.
This is 1/16th of an inch smaller than the stock VK Commodore bore size of 15/16 which is what my front brakes are from.
This does not take into consideration my pedal lever ratio, so could be way off, but thought it best to take my guess based on some form of an educated guess.
 
I can however see me ending up with a 13/16 master as i am willing to sacrifice some pedal travel for mechanical advantage as my current plan is to not run a booster.
 

I have also had 8mm eye ends professionally crimped to a generic handbrake cable set and drilled/slotted my bracket to allow cable installation/removal after having the opposite ends of my cables crimped.

 
The other end of my cable will have threaded rods crimped to allow adjustment of my cable length.
The threaded section will pass through a block of aluminium that i made today to allow the single front cable to pull on both rear cables.

 
I have also fitted my DIY version of the MadDat brake swap.

 
MadDat did sell me a pair of their Datsun 1000 brake conversion rubber lines.
It was nice and easy to have at least one part of my swap go together like a Lego kit.
Thank you MadDat.
 
Oh and i happened to have a driveshaft in my Datsun stash that fits my 120y centre and the length also worked out perfect, so driveshaft was sorted free and easily also.
 
So... hard lines, handbrake cables and probably a few master cylinder bore sizes are still in my future before resolving my brake swap.
Ash.

I have a 3/4 and a 7/8 here at home now and the 7/8 is now fitted to the car.
 
So if it turns out the 7/8 feels like it has no travel ill give the 3/4 a go before buying another size.
 
When installing my 7/8 master cylinder I found that my brake pedal wouldn't return to the adjustable bump stop, so I made up a new push rod at a slightly longer length. (top rod is stock and lower rod is my home built one)

 
I also remade the pivot from a grade 12.9 bolt that was left over from my first rear brake swap.
The pin that was in my car was only retained by the pedal return spring, so if the spring was to ever fail or pop off then the pin would have nothing retaining it.
 
I just made the new pin to the same dimensions, except longer to add an R-Clip as a plan B in case the return spring ever fails.

 
 
I have also finished my handbrake cables.
 
I ended up replacing the bolts which hold the cables to the callipers with some grade 12.9 cap screws and tapered the outer diameter to to allow installation/removal of the cables without disassembling my callipers as my new cable ends are slightly wider than a stock R31 cable so wouldnt fit easiy without the additional room created by the taper.

 
The opposite end now has 6mm threads crimped to my cables and my outers also have threaded ends, so have tons of adjustment to allow for any cable stretch over the years.

 
Ash.

Thanks for the heads up Neil.
 
So just a rod with a rounded end... and set my length to suit?
 
Would be easy for me to do as I made my rod as a 2 piece part with M8x1.25 thread to join the two parts.

Well I guess it is of to the bolt shop for me to buy something long and strong that I can modify.
 
on a side note, I picked up my brake lines from the brake shop and bent them up using my old line as a template for 95% of the new lines length, only differing at the engine bay end to join directly to the master cylinder..
 
I sticky taped the old and new lines together after each bend was complete and worked my way from one end of the line to the other, one bend at a time.

 
I found it easiest to simply bend my lines around some old brake pistons left over from my calliper rebuild as they had a perfect groove to keep things on a constant plane throughout the bend.
This method made positioning and orientating the bends a fairly intuitive and simple process.

Much betterer
 
I like it
 
In the past when I used to make and sell my conversions using the KC laser calipers
I always had to scrounge up clutch masters to rob the rods out of
Only Toyota ones... so no biggie