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Beetwenty's B10 2 door

The work isn't all that hard to do.
If you left out drying times for paint, it dosn't take very long to do.
If you already have one there it would probably be worth fixing up instead.
 
Postage costs will make this an expensive way to end up with a painted one.
I would be asking $50 + Post if I sell it.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Well as some of you already know I spend almost all of my spare time trying to fix up my local bike trails.
10-20 hours a week for the past few months and around 10 hours a week for the past 4 years prior to that.
(All of which has to fit around a 36.5 hour working week and running two web sites).
So I don't get left with much time where im motivated to work more.
 
For those of you interested in what I have been doing while im not on here... here is a link to my other web page.
www.mtbtrailcare.com
 
I have decided to take a break from it over the xmas break, so hopefuly that means my 1000 can see some love again.
 
I bought half of an early heater from "Tonka" (Thank you David).
I decided to make a start on fixing up what I have.
 
Firstly I decided to fix up the aluminium sticker from the front of the heater.

 
After years of use, the aluminium had a collection of dents & bumps.
So I decided to use some acetone to remove the old glue from the rear of the sticker and then roll it all flat again over a flat surface covered in a cloth.
 
I rolled with the writing face down firmly, then flipped it over like in the pic above and gently rolled the aluminium flat again.
After a few passes it is now looking great.
 
I have also removed the old stickers on the side of my heater, im not sure if i will use these or make new ones yet, either way I need them in one piece.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
I have now sand blasted the first two pieces of my early heater and my compressor needs a break.
 

 
Because my heater has rust all over it im now finding pinholes in the metal pieces after blasting.
(It's not the end of the world, at least I have a heater to restore, so im still very happy with where i'm currently at with this)

 
I hope I don't come across too many of these.
If this is as bad as it gets, im considering just rust converting and fibreglassing the inside face as im worried i'll make huge holes trying to weld these up.
 
 
Anyway here is the heater before blasting.
(I took this pic so I can find the correct placement for my stickers once im finished).
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
molasses 10:1 water ratio and wait
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Nice video D.
 
I had heard of vinegar and water as a rust converter before, but never molasses, Thank you.
 
 
I have blasted all my parts now anyway, just got one tiny hole on the base section.
I have rust converted and sealed everything up with KBS  Rust-Seal (I believe this is the same as POR15).
 
Im not sure if I can work on it again tomorrow so I decided to seal everything up.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
My farm friends use fruits like peaches, plums and apricots instead
Seems Fructose and other Plant sugars do the job of converting
rust due to the chemical reaction of phosphoric acid formation.
Im doing my engine blocks this way to rid the rusty gunk inside.
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
I have now painted the box part of my heater box.
 
The stickers are just held in place with some bluetack so I could take this progress pic.
And I intend on using some new philips head screws to hold the front vent in place once im all finished.
 
So for now im after everything else that is needed to complete this heater.
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Hooooo amazing job,
 
congrats!
nice restoration
sweet hot box massaging B20  I think lube will help it drying out and rusting on the inside 
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
Amazing work, as usual!!
After much time and saving I have finaly sorted out some new wheels for my 1000.
 
I purchased a set of Gloria-Supersharks from Otomoto and then had them refurbished localy. I have new tyres on them now so it's time to fit these.
 
For those interested in sizes they are...
 
14 inch Rims, 6 inch width, +14 offset and 4x114.3 bolt patern.
Tyres R14, 175, 60.
 
I still need to buy new wheel nuts and fit new grerese caps to the front hubs.
 
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
they look awesome.. !!! well done ..
wow, look tops mate,
size looks perfect,
are you gonna drop the back an inch?
Lovely choice looking very good all round!
Just wondering those front door frames are painted over the original deluxe stainless frames or are they just standard door frames painted? I just love the stainless trimmed deluxe door frames garnish maybe they are available separately still in Japan?
During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act, Big Brother is watching you - George Orwell United we stand, Divided we fall - Aesop  NAMES IN JAPANESE - LOOKING FOR VB10 SHELL http://iamthewitness.com/ZionistControlOfBritain.html   lovely piece! http://www.thetruthseeker.co.uk/?p=24688
funny d, lol
i was gonna ask exactly that as well....
if they are painted,  the paint may be removable?
 
its something i thought about when looking at others painted as well..
 
i like the stainless also..
Such a good looking car.
 
Ash, what colour code is that? I really like it.
The drivers door is missing the chrome trim, the door frame itself is painted
It is one part that I really want to buy, but have not yet found one for sale.
 
I will be lowering the rear an inch or so and Im happy with the height on the front
 
I have no idea about the paint code as the car had been repainted before I bought it.
I have some small repairs to do in the future, so will need to get some paint matched.
If I remember to do so i'll list the paint recipe in my build diary.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Time for another update, this time it is rear speakers for my 1000.
 
I didn't want to see speaker pods on the parcel shelf as im trying to keep my mods looking more like restorations or roughly era-correct upgrades where I can.
 
 
Anyway here goes...
 
I started by cuting out some 4.8mm masonite to fit the holes below the parcel shelf.
And then cut holes to fit a set of 6x9 speakers.

 
I did this to keep the speakers below the parcel shelf itself.
 
For the Parcel-Shelf I traced the old one onto some 3mm board and then cut the new one to size.

 
Then i used contact adhesive and added my vinyl, trimmed it up and layed out my template for my speaker holes.

 
I used a 3mm hole punch.
After much testing with drill bits, reaming bits ect, I came to the conclusion that punching directly onto concrete keeps the board from splitting.
 
So I bought a few cheap punches and just let them die as I drove them into the concrete again and again.

 
The finished speaker hole pattern ended up looking very factory.

 
Here it is in my car.

 
I have a little more to do, but thought this was at a point where the idea of what im up to is 99% visualy complete.
 
I still need to wire these up and add foam to the back of the parcel shelf, add in the holes for the 10 clips that hold the Parcel-Shelf down.
 
If things vibrate with music I will make some clips to hold the speaker mounts in place.
 
Ash.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
Well I have wired up my speakers, screwed the speaker mounts down in each corner of the wood with tiny nuts and bolts, using big washers to ovellap the original metal of the car, but not add any holes to the car.
I glued down some closed cell foam on the under side of my parcel shelf.
 
The 6x9's distort before anything in the car vibrates, So im pleased with my results there.
 
 
On to bigger news... I have made up a new dash pad over the weekend and have just finished it off after work today.
 
I covered my dash with masking tape, made a trough infront of my dash with even more masking tape and a length of timber, then placed drop sheets over everything else.
I drew lines with a nikko pen to define the areas i needed to fibreglass.
Then I gave all the masking tape a coat of vaseline to act as my release agent.

 
I brushed everything down with a layer of resin and got into laying fibreglass (2 layers, waited for it to firm up a little and then added a third layer).

 
I was very careful not to build up the edges too much and create a part bigger than the hole it needs to come out of.
Luckily it came out very easyily, although it was a little tight in the corners because of it's width.

 
After a rough trim it is already looking like a dash.

 
I sanded down my high points and added a thin wipe of pink body filler into the lows.
Knocked the highs down again, added a few coats of spray putty and gave it all a final sand & one last fine trim around some edges.

 
Then spray glued everything and wraped it in black vinyl.

 
Here it is in place.

 
I am very pleased with how this finished up, it was my first attempt at Fibreglass and also trimming something in vinyl that has 3D shape to it.
 
Ash.
1967 Datsun B10 2 Door.
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