Ok, So an update on the project.
 
Its come to a grinding halt.
Its basically a lack of available time.
My wife has been unwell for some time and the house is needing much needed repairs and renovations. As such, what waking time I have available is looking after the family or working on the house.
Its fustrating as I was just starting to get some momentum on the project, only to have to just stop.
 
Hoping that by June, Ill have all the house stuff done, uni will be done (im thinking of defering for semester 2 2018) and i can get back into the saddle on this.

Thanks Ash,
 
Will be spending a day or two on my green machine 4 door to get it ready for sale this weekend - so some time on a datsun, even if its not Daisy. That cash is pegged for the project, plus anything else I offload from the shed.
 
Its not all doom and gloom, just another speedbump is all.

If you do get a small ammount of Datsun time here and there, and are looking to feel like you have made some progress on things, there are  things you can do which dont take large blocks of time/cash.
 

• Clean up threads with a tap and die set.
  
• Polish scratches out from light/indicator lenses.
  
• Remove 1 part and clean it up and put it back on etc etc.
  

 
Even the smallest improvement is still an improvement and if you do enough of them they add up.
 
Could be a way to get somewhere on the car while still focusing on your family.

Youll have to bring an indicator inside and polish it in the house on the top secret.

Sounds like a keeper.
 
Friends wife was keen on baking some aluminum intercooler plumbing in the oven to krinkle coat it on Sunday ... was for her EP82 Starlet tho.
 
 
Old lenses come up amazing with a polish/buff.

Ive owned many Mazda cars both rotary and pistons
also worked on quite a few over the years for friends
 
You wont need to balance anything at all int these engines
if you get new rods, pistons you just get them to weigh the
same as each other with a tolerance of a gram will suffice.
Pulley you can get balance if its new otherwise no need.
Turbo engines dont rev as high as NA so again the need
to balance a jap engine for normal rpm is null.
 
Have you fitted the engine block to test the front clearance
sorry cant recall this but Ive never had issues with V belts
and sure they are not as efficient as serpies but they are
better in that they are available anywhere in case you get
stuck in the Pilabara or where ever Red Dog ventured 
V belts worked well for a century almost and last longer
than flimsy serp belts as well.
 
KISS is the best thing for this setup, get it to work first then
you can add to it later if you wish etc. I would do the aircon
later just better get the engine running and first with a base
tune as you will have a chance to drive it to get help with
other things if they pop up.
 
My concern is the sealing on the front seal, if not accurate
by your machinist or original drawings then this will be a
big headache if you have to get the big plate remade.
 
Be careful these new plates are up to spec as Rob had
done a fair bit to get these right.
 
On another note you will have a very light car with an engine
that can make 130hp stock NA with better road manners than
the same hp from a highly strung A series.with little torque.
 
The heads flow up to 180-299hp virtually stock for NA, the miata
yank freaks get 160 rwks with just removing slags in the castings
match porting, cams and 2mm head shave with tuned toyota 4age itbs.
 
Just cams will get 150hp with stock all else as these engines have
great flowing inlet and ex ancillaries. That is supercar hp for a k

I dont have any part numbers for you sorry Reuby T.
 
Small chance of it... but if you end up buying seals based on physical sizing be aware that alot of seals are rotation direction specific.
They have little angled grooves inside.
 
So take note of rotation directions to buy the correct ones if you have to go down this path.

So I went on a bit on a mission last week.
 
Picked up spare cam timing pulleys - 1.8l BP motor was the donor
Bottom crank timing pulley - Mazda DA 121 B3 engine was the donor. Has an extra pulley for the aircono so thats a win.
Spare wiring harness for the mazda injectors, plugs and CAS.
 
Picked up seals for the timing cover - Spoke to the guy on the counter about the directional stuff. He says that since all the seals and 'industrial' rated, they go both ways, so not an issue.
Crank seal 40-52-8
Cam seal 50-62-8
 
So far so good.
 
Looking at my colleciton of stuff, I realised that I dont have an a15 sump or camshaft.....
Well thats a bit of an oversight!
So I ask my local sneaky parts supplier to see if he has anything stashed in his shed, but If anyone can help out with an a15 sump and a14 camshaft (block is a14, with a15 crank) that would be great. No hurry, but im trying to get the bottom end done over the next few months.

thanks d
 
Ill look for a late a12 cam .
 
Everyting I have at home is A10 stuff, or in a running motor that I dont want to pull down.
 
Since I am modding the sump with the Sr20 pan, I really only need a regular a12 pan, but its the humps on the drivers side of the pan to clear the rods that I need.
 
I spose I could mod an existing pan, but welding in some humps, but that seems like loads of work.
 
Perhaps I need to chase down an N10 pulsar sump. Those things a super thin over the cross member witha deep front section, but those old pulsars are near impossible to find these days.

If you extend the pick up for a bigger sump will that mean your full mark sits at the same height but the low mark could sit lower?
 
If so you may be making a custom dip stick.
 
Just measured my A14.  Full mark on the dipstick sits 98mm below block/sump gasket/join.
 
 
 
I just used a cabletie to hold the dipstick on the outside of the engine to see whats what.

As for pickup mods, ive helped on similar projects...
My best friend extended his pickup in an FJ20 years ago and my brother did it to a 1uz.
 
Both were extended for sump clearance to crossmember (foward/rearward) and both added a tab to pick up on a bolting point to make up for the extra leverage of the longer pickup tube.
 
Here is a link to a picture of my brothers 1uz pickup mod.
http://www.retrojdm.com/Images/GalleryPhotos/Original/2008-06-21%2001.jpg

Is this info of any use to you Reuby T?